Visit Britain Archives - Miss Foodwise

Borough Market – not just a food market

Regula — Tue, 13 Jun 2017 13:47:25 +0000

I’ve been planning to write about Borough Market for a very long time, the draft has been in my folder waiting for the right moment, and now the time couldn’t be more poignant. After last weeks terrible events where the market was the victim of a senseless attack I knew I had to write this. Now over a week later, the market is finally opening again and now more than ever the market traders and surrounding restaurants and bars need your support.

Most of the traders are very small often family owned businesses. Loosing a week of custom, and getting over the fact that this beautiful multicultural market was soiled with violence is tough. We all know the way forward it to ‘keep calm and carry on’ so please if you are in London, take the tube to London Bridge Station and do your shopping at Borough Market. Meet there for lunch or dinner or after-work-drinks. It’s safe, probably safer than it has ever been. But mostly, it is a statement, that we will not let terrorism dictate our lives.

On my first ever visit to Borough Market 7 years ago, I never thought that today I would be working for them and writing for their mag and website. Now nearly two years ago I became a photographer for the Borough Market magazine called ‘Market Life’. It is beautifully produced and jam-packed with interesting content. Stories about the market traders and their lives, the produce, the provenance and the events at the market which have become plentiful over the years. There are panel talks, tastings, cookery demonstrations and there even is a Cookbook Club. It is such a community. I’ve worked with many of the market traders, sourcing produce for shoots, they’ve been generous with advise and for some shoots they’ve even been on hand to help me. That is why I was especially shaken by the sadness that happened last week. My first thoughts were with the traders and the people who work tirelessly behind the scenes in the Borough Market office. The people I love to work with.

Borough Market is life, it is hope. It is a place where gender, sexual orientation, colour, religion or political preference doesn’t matter. It’s food, only food. That what keeps us alive, that what we live for, that what brings people together. The market sent out a statement and I want to share with you:

Now more than ever, we need to remind ourselves that what we do here matters. A food market has nothing to do with hate. A food market is about sustenance and wellbeing, pleasure and sharing, companionship and family. That’s why it’s important.

This post was supposed to be about the history of Borough Market, but for now, it is about the present and the future…
If you can not make it to the market but wish to show your support, many traders have an online shop, but there is also a crowdfunding campaign where you can donate to help the businesses and individuals who suffered financial heartache because of the closure. You can find it here: www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/bmrelieffund

Visit the Borough Market website for updates and to learn about the different market traders and businesses that form part of this rich and beautiful food community: http://boroughmarket.org.uk/

Also see this ‘where to eat’ guide compiled by Ed Smith who like me also works for the market: http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/where-to-eat-in-borough-market-a3557376.html

My personal favourites, while are traders are equally lovely are:

A Bread Ahead donut – best eaten somewhere in a corner, slightly private, to enjoy the full finger-licking experience.
Also there brioche burger buns, large white tin loaf (perfect for summer pudding and bacon sarnies!!), and decent sourdough loaves

Karaway Bakery Poppyseed and coconut and white chocolate bun – I always take these home for our breakfast the next day.
Also their caraway sourdough loaves and mini rolls.

Olivier Bakery for their round milk loaf… so good with plenty of butter!

Flour Station for EPIC English muffins and decent sourdough loaves. They make a mean Chelsea bun too!

Excuisite Deli have a great cured Biltong, Brindisa for spanish cured meats, Bianca e Mora for great Emilia Romagna cheese.

Speaking of cheese, Alsop & Walker sell the Lord London Booby shaped white cheese which is ah-mazing, there is also great cheese from Bath from Bath Soft Cheese Co. Borough Cheese Co for everything cheese and Gorwydd Caerphilly for … Caerphilly of course!
Kappacasein makes a mean raclette and cheese sarnie with cheese from Bermondsey which is just round the corner. And don’t forget all the others and Neils Yard Dairy who has a large selection.

For all things meaty I go to Dom from Northfield Farm who patiently cuts and wraps all the cuts of meat I carry home in my suitcase after working at the market. Go there for excellent beef from their own farm and friend-farms, check out their meat maturing cabinet thingie! Dom is proud of his mutton, and his lamb is excellent too. And if you are feeling peckish after your meat shop, turn around and order a burger at their stall, they are excellent and have long been my favourite in town.

Furness Fish & Game have excellent game and poultry. They usually have a very lush display of fish.

Cumbrian Speciality meats for some Herdwick and other rare breed meats

Gourmet Goat make mouthwatering dishes with kid goat meat

I’m told one of the Borough Market office workers has to bring home a pie from Mrs King’s Pork pies or the spouse at home is very very disappointed indeed. They are very good and award-winning, coming from pie-central: Melton Mowbray

For fishy situations my first stop is always Paul at Sussex Fish. A lovely fellow always in a good mood and always selling smashing fresh fish from his own boat and sustainably caught. He wraps them carefully for me to stock up my freezer at home.

Richard Haward’s Oysters have been my little treat for years, I usually get a pint of Stout across the street in the pub and have my oysters with it, proper old school and VERY good.

Shellseekers Fish and Game are usually where I get my lunch when I work at Borough Market, a quick dressed Dorset crab and a ciabatta from Bread ahead. The most luxurious fast food there is.

There is also an excellent mushroom paté that is so delish and the only thing Paté Moi has been selling for years, made to her own family recipe.

For after work drinks Wright Brothers Oyster and Porter house are your spot for oysters. And why not Fish and Chips at Fish!

Fruit and Veg there are plenty of options so browse the whole market. Turnips, Ted’s Veg, Elsie’s and if apples are your thing then definitely check out Chegworth Valley.

Spices can be found at Spice Mountain, in handy little pots. The local honey man sells a very good honey.

For lunch there are so many options it is hard to pick a few, so have a browse and see what takes your fancy: goats dishes, Indian food, melted cheese sarnies, Balkan bites, burgers, Herdwick lamb wrap, Ethiopan, old school Hobbs Meat Roast, proper Lincolnshire sausage, salt beef bagels and falafel wraps, Sri-Lankan cuisine, British pies… a wonderful mix of cultures! See all the street food stalls here: http://boroughmarket.org.uk/traders/street-food

For a full list of market stalls visit the Borough Market website: http://boroughmarket.org.uk/traders

Turnips fruit and veg

Sussex Fish – sustainable fish

Traders always give advise

Northfield Farm for meat and burgers for lunch

Dom from Northfield Farm helping me with a shoot for the market’s magazine

Northfield Farm’s lamb, expertly butchered by Dom

Market traders take time to talk to schoolchildren on a visit to the market

Cumbrian meats

Justin from Bread Ahead

Inside Bread Ahead Bakery

Chegworth Valley apples

Bianca & Mora

Fitz Fine Foods

All kinds of eggs at Wild Beef

The pub – The Market Porter

Bobbies ordering a Northfield Farm burger

Furness Fish & Game helping us with choosing game

Before the market opens all is quiet

The first ever picture I took at the market 7 years ago

Good luck to all the traders and people involved with Borough Market!

The post Borough Market – not just a food market appeared first on Miss Foodwise.

A Visit to the Peak District

Regula — Wed, 30 Jul 2014 12:34:00 +0000

Normally for us a holiday starts early in the morning, after not nearly enough sleep. I will repack my clothes last minute and then we’re off, to start a long long day.

But not this time, we were travelling with P&O’s overnight ferry from Zeebrugge to Hull. We left the house at 4, which left me enough time to change my mind about my chosen wardrobe for our holiday and leave without the usual rush.

Our plan was to travel to the Peak District, a beautiful national park in the North of England. The ferryboat brought us conveniently to an hour away from where we needed to be and gave us ideas for other trips in the future. Last year we stood still fro 6 hours on our way to the West country, then again a six hour delay when we were heading to the Cotswolds and again when we drove back to Dover.

Needless to say, we were so looking for a way to avoid the dreadful M25, M4 and other M’s that get major delays. The Ferry to Hull brings you not only to the gateway of the North and Scotland, it’s great when you need to travel to Wales and even the Midland towns like Birmingham. Anything to avoid the traffic around London sounds like music to my ears.

My partner in crime

Our holiday well and truly started when we boarded the ferry and got us a nice spot on deck to watch the sunset while we were sipping a glass of wine and gazing over the wide and peaceful seascape.

When we retired to our hut we turned into our bunk beds and closed our eyes with the knowledge that we were being brought to England without having to drive, or take trains, in the morning after breakfast, we would just suddenly arrive where we needed to be. It was fantastic for B, who is stuck in traffic every day to get to the office, when you’re on holiday, you really don’t want to spend it driving for yours again.

After a hearty brekkie we left the Ferry and drove into the rainy North of England. We made a two hour stop in Sheffield as it was on the road and we needed a cup of tea and our English magazines. Then we drove on to our final destination, Castleton a quaint little village in the Hope Valley.

Castleton is an old mining village, first for lead an then when a young boy decided to go and search for lead in Treak Cliff hill, a new site in Castleton that he leased, he excavated an entrance for years but discovered not lead, but a vein of blue stone with yellow streaks. The stone was baptised Blue John, probably an interpretation in the local dialect from the French ‘bleu et jaune’. The stone started to be mined and was even used in the first world war as a fuel for furnaces which unfortunately resulted in a lot of precious stone being lost forever.

In the 1940’s a miner found a new vein of Blue John and hid it so only he could find it again, sadly he only got to tell a few people before he passed away suddenly.

Mining still happens in this cavern in january of each year, and the cavern, which you can visit, is still in the hands of the mining family which inherited it decades ago. The ‘lost vein’ as it was called became nothing more than a legend after a few decades but then last year, the current miners at Treak Cliff Cavern discovered it by accident when kicking some mud. The legend told the story of John Royce, the miner who hid the new – now lost – vein with some clay and blankets so when blankets were found underneath the clay, the miners were of course extremely excited by their discovery. There are a few caverns to visit in the village, most are lead mines but if you need to choose only one, I would choose Treak Cliff Cavern as it is the last working Blue John mine and a family business. I bought a huge nodule of the Lost vein because I was so intrigued by the cavern. In the cafe of the cavern you can also have a glass of the water they collect in the cavern, naturally filtered water!

The village of Castleton also has 6 pubs, a restaurant and a couple of cafe’s. For a small village like that it is extraordinary, we were there when there weren’t all that much tourists around but still at night the pubs and the local restaurant were packed. We tried a few places for dinner but we came to the conclusion that the Italian restaurant which was actually more a place serving modern British food and excellent and creative pizza’s, was the very best of the bunch. Produce was fresh, well prepared, and dishes were wholesome and well priced. The drinks on offer are your traditional wine list, which I must say featured a British sparkling wine and a few options of local craft beer. A place where I gladly part with my cash.

Another site to see is Peverel’s castle which is mentioned in the Domesday book in 1086. The ruins overlook Castleton village and after a short walk up the hill, you get a great view over the valley and surrounding hills. Our farmhouse B&B which could be spotted from the hilltop was situated in the most idillic place at the foot of Winnats Pass, a ravine of limestone hills which make you feel very small when you take a stroll trough the towering landscape. We walked there at 7 in the morning, after being woken up by the sun early and heading out quickly after being intrigued by the view from our bedroom window.

Winnats Pass

Derbyshire oatcake with local -devine- bacon, cooked by the farmer

Early mornings, or maybe even evenings are best to experience Winnats Pass, as during the day this National Trust owned estate is clouded by fast moving cars and busses of day-trippers. I also enjoy the quiet morning atmosphere, the chill in the air like the cold breath of nature breathing in your neck.

After our breakfast of traditional Derbishire Oatscakes, bacon and eggs we drove off into the unexpected sunny warm weather to discover another Peak district delight, the Bakewell tart.

Arriving in Bakewell I was a bit disappointed by the busy state of the main road, it made me feel quite nervous and I could not wait to discover a more quaint and quiet part of the village. Behind the corner of the Bakewell pudding shop is a narrow street where no cars were luckily allowed, there we discovered another two bake well pudding and tart shops and we decided to compare tarts. One was sweeter than the other and my personal taste is that less sugar is better and my preference went to Bloomers who’s puddings and tarts were less sweet and didn’t include preservatives. We washed it all down with ehm… beer, and drove further south for ten minutes or so to visit Haddon Hall.

Bakewell and bunting, I do like a town that has a bit of bunting

The Bakewell Pudding

Haddon Hall isn’t just a beautiful fortified Tudor manor house, it is also the film location of one of my favourite movies: Jane Eyre with Charlotte Gainsbourg as Jane and William Hurt as Mr Rochester. The recent version with Michael Fassbender also had some scenes filmed there but the older film I just mentioned, just is the better Charlotte Bronte translation onto silver screen.

Another place to visit if you have a taste for the Bronte sisters and Jane Eyre novels is of course Chatsworth house and Lyme park. Especially Lyme Park which is used for that epic BBC version of Pride and Prejudice from 1995 which has the one and only Mr Darcy: Colin Firth. Lyme Park shows the backdrop of that scene where Mr Darcy jumps into the water and afterwards meets Elisabeth Bennet soaking wet… Do I need to say more?

The scene of Jane Eyre… “Jane, You, you strange – you almost unearthly thing!” Mr Rochester

Haddon Hall, where parts of Jane Eyre were filmed

Hardwick Hall, although situated just outside the Peak District is well worth a visit. Hardwick old hall, a superb ruin which is situated right next to the ‘new’ hall looks like the roof and windows were removed last year and are impressive. The new hall was build by Bess of Hardwick, the second richest woman in England after Queen Elizabeth I and one of the first woman who wanted to applaud strong independent woman. It is a curious looking manor and the ruins of the old hall next to it make it quite an interesting place to have a walk around. When you get peckish, there is the National Trust Tearoom to get a sarnie or a slice of cake. Just off the estate is also a working mill where you can buy excellent flour.

Dovedale, a picturesque valley in south of the Peak District National park is a perfect place for a leisurely walk. We started early morning in a tiny village called Milldale, we had a cup of tea by the River Dove and were mugged by a dozen of ducks who were up to no good trying to steal our slice of lemon drizzle cake. Realising were were outnumbered by the ducks we followed the walking track next to the river Dove and followed it to Dovedale and the iconic ‘stepping stones’ bridge.

Allow plenty of time for this walk, it is really beautiful and you will want to stop for plenty of pictures and breaks. In the little tea and coffee shop in Milldale you can purchase a good map of the area which shows the different walks and how long they take.

On our way back from Dovedale to Castleton we stopped at Buxton, not the prettiest of towns but we did spot a place that sells filled Derbyshire oatcakes and other sarnies for on the go. Our last stop was Tideswell, the village who got some fame after the BBC lottery program, the village used the funds to start a cookery school and the Taste Tideswell scheme where village shops could participate to a foodie cooperative. It was 5 in the evening though, and the village was asleep like all shops have been closed for years instead of an hour or two. Go there before 4 in the afternoon!

Monsal head, nice walk down to the river

Back in Castleton we enjoyed many short evening strolls and our stay there ended with a visit to the tiny village shop, they sell breakfast options on the go, excellent cakes, oatcakes and bread, most of which is baked on site. I had them fill a box for us to take as a picnic and also had the choice between a variety of local cheeses and pork pies. I would be very happy with a store like that on my doorstep.

Our few days in the Peak District ended with the cruise on the P&O ferryboat back to Belgium, we had a good meal, a drink and turned in early after another lovely sunset over the sea.

Getting there
Ferry boat

If you’re coming from the continent, the P&O ferry from Zeebrugge to Hull really is the ideal way to travel to the Peak District, (but also the Lake District, Scotland, Wales and the Midlands if you are planning a long holiday). It’s relaxing and you awake to start your holiday with a freshly rested head.

Flying in

When coming from further afield, the airport of Manchester is the best airport to fly to and regular trains run to Buxton, Hope and Edale and busses get you further to other towns.
Train

Also if you are coming from London or further down, a train will bring you to Mancherster and regular trains run further to Buxton, Hope and Edale

Places to visit

Stately homes and ruins

Haddon Hall – if you love Jane Eyre, this is a must
Lyme Park – Go and see where some of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice was filmed
Chatsworth house
Hardwick Hall and Old Hall
Peveril Castle

Walking and exploring

Treak cliff cavern in Castleton- for the Blue John stone
Several other caverns in Castleton
Castleton has several walks starting in the village
Winnats Pass, go early in the morning.
Mam Tor and Kinder Scout
Dovedale Valley, several walks starting from Dovedale or Milldale or other sites. Pick up one of the handy maps, they are also sold in the Milldale tea shop. Also this link may come in handy
Thorpe Cloud, a very steep hill overlooking Dovedale Valley. We climbed it, it was VERY steep but the view was worth it.
Solomon’s Temple
Monsal head, walk down to the river and walk to the viaduct

Eating
We didn’t want posh restaurants after walking all day so looked for quaint and cosy instead. These are the ones we tried. If you like a special meal, I’ve been recommended The Peacock

Castleton

1530
Italian restaurant which actually in my opinion Modern British

Excellent food for excellent value, we didn’t want a fancy restaurant, just decent food and lovely service which is what you get here. Good veggie options, great imaginative pizza’s and juicy lamb dishes. Excellent local beef as well. They serve ales from a local brewery. Highly recommended.

The Bulls Head

Great local beers, cozy pub and restaurant

Pub food, not excellent, not bad. They do pizza’s too, but use way too much cheese to my liking.

The Castle Inn

Great outside garden for a pint, local beers and ciders.

It is a ‘Vintage Inns’ chain pub and I wish I had known before I ordered food as I have eaten at those Vintage Inns before and it was just as disappointing as on the other occasions. How hard is it to make a decent bowl of soup?
Peveril store
Lovely village shop with local cheeses, oatcakes and home baked breads and cakes.

Bakewell

Bloomers bakery
for Bakewell tarts, puddings and other sweets.
There are other bakeries for Bakewell tarts but I preferred this one and it was recommended by a local.

Milldale

Tiny little takeaway tea and coffee shop, you can’t miss it as the village is super small.

They have home baked cakes, take one with you while walking.I was a guest of P&O Ferries.

Thorpe Cloud – wear suitable footwear, this is steep.

Thank you for commenting!

You might also enjoy
Visit Dartmoor by train

The post A Visit to the Peak District appeared first on Miss Foodwise.

A weekend away in Britain: Dartmoor and Exeter by train

Regula — Thu, 17 Apr 2014 18:55:00 +0000

Ditch the car for a long weekend
This online space of mine has always been about my love for Britain, not only British food. Traveling around the country, exploring regional dishes, wandering around small villages and heritage sites is what I love to do most.
So what would I do on this long weekend ahead of us? I would venture out to Dartmoor, the weather is going to be splendid for walking and having a lovely pub lunch outside. And what if you’re stuck in traffic with your car every day, or don’t have a car, don’t know how to drive or just want to get away without your car, just because you want to.
This is a weekend away to Dartmoor and Exeter, without a car, but with plenty of fun.

Day 1: A dinner on a train to Devon
The weekend starts on a friday evening at Padding station in London, we’ve already spent the day in London browsing book shops and munching our way through Borough Market but the real trip is starting when the train to Devon leaves the platform this evening.
We have a booking on the First Great Western Pullman service, which will wine and dine us until we arrive in Exeter. They journey should have brought us to Cornwall but nature took over in the West Country a couple of weeks ago and the train track at Dawlish got consumed by the sea. Our plans had to change so we decided on a weekend of walking and pub meals in Dartmoor.

I’ve always had a thing for dining trains, it just oozes Victorian charm and I can just imagine how it used to be on the older and more charming train carriages. We board the train around six and as dinner service is shorter temporary, we are taking our place at our table while we leave the station. It’s a full house, or should I say full train to Exeter and dinner service commences with a quick pace. The team on board serving us is professional and witty, it is clear that we have some regulars dining with us today. I heard the Somerset steak has a good reputation so I had to try it and for my starter I chose the Dartmouth salmon with Blackmore Vale Dairy cream cheese. That’s the thing with this Pullman dining service, they have sourced the produce from the land and the waters we are travelling past on the train. The menu has been created by Mitch Tonks of the Seahorse in Dartmouth, as is the wine list which is sadly lacking a British wine. I sipped my pint of Tribute when we were approaching Reading, the salmon was delicate in flavour and the cheese a definitely good match, the steak really was devine and cooked medium rare as I asked. The sun was setting and a short while before Taunton we received our dessert, a cheese platter for us as we don’t have a sweet tooth. All British cheeses which were at the right temperature, a soft Helford white, a smoky Devon Blue and a Keens Cheddar served with a quince jelly that was so good I finished Bruno’s as well.
By the time we left Taunton, we were full and happy and ready to turn in for the night at our hotel in Exeter.

The lady chef of the Pullman dinner service

We were so tired after walking around London all day and enjoying such lovely food on the train, that we had an early night, ready to take the twelve O clock bus to Dartmoor.

Day two: To the Moors
Busses to Dartmoor leave from the coach station in Exeter, after a walk around town with our backpacks we made a quick stop at the Real Food Store for a piece of cake – which was moist and full of dark chocolate and left us pining for more. The bus trip to Moretonhampstead is about an hour and with plenty of pretty views along the way and locals having a chat with you, it is over and done with in no time. We arrive in Moretonhampstead and start the search for our 13th century farmhouse B&B.
The farmhouse is situated a 20 minute walk out of the village, it’s a nice scenic walk and as the weather was so warm for the time of the year, we enjoyed it.
As I had seen on the website, the farmhouse was gorgeous. It is a gem, and unspoiled treasure. If you like flowery wallpaper and curtains like I do, this is your B&B. No modern additions except for the bathroom which makes this stay all the more relaxing. The sun tries to enter the room through the bay window in our room and we both make it ourselves cosy and comfortable in the armchairs which have a warm woolen upholstery. No rest for the wicked, after less than an hour we are out the door again, this time with bikes we conveniently rented from the B&B. We drove back to Moretonhampstead with a hungry tummy and thirst for a local ale. After a visit to the local butcher for a pork pie and to the greengrocer across the street for apples, we were ready for a picnic with friends we know in the area. It was my birthday, and although we planned to do some walking that day, we just had too much fun outside in the sun, savouring Devon delights and catching up with friends.
Dinner was booked at the White Heart and as we were with the bikes we opted to eat early at six. The food was great and quite fine for a pub, the pudding sticky and sweet and the ale local. A good evening and day all round and we start our return trip to the farmhouse in pitch black. I must admit I was scared at times, my imagination always gets the better of me and soon I was seeing the hound of the Baskerville in the light of my cell phone. Street lighting is none existing so take a torch with you, we didn’t.

The moss, very Tim Burton

The shivering cross

A sheep

A Tor

The ruins of a house that was still a home 50 years ago

Day three: big fry up and fried shoes
The next morning we were woken by the song of birds and beams of sunlight peeping through our flower print curtains. We had a full English in the quaint farmhouse breakfast room, which is full of vintage Staffordshire pottery and other kitchenalia. As was to be expected, the breakfast was fabulous with their own fresh eggs, local bacon, great sausages and freshly made yoghurt. All washed down with a nice cup of Earl Grey we put on our walking boots, and were greeted by the door in a ray of sunshine by Inga, our guide to Dartmoor today.
As we only had one full day on Dartmoor and we were without a car, we opted to do a guided walk with Inga. There are no extra busses that drive up the Moors, if you don’t have a car, you will not get there so Inga is catering for people who are on foot like we were. A few minutes drive with Inga brings us to the Moors and we embark on a eight or nine mile walk.
Soon it becomes clear that my boots, old army boots, have had their best years and are not waterproof. We are walking on a path that looks more like a stream of water, but as the scenery is so breathtaking, I just don’t mind the water getting in and get on with it.

I am happy we went on a walk with Inga as she not only knows where to go in this National Park that hates putting signs up for walkers, she also knows quite a few things about the history of the Moors.
The romantic rough rolling landscape of Dartmoor appears to be a wonder of nature but it is mankind who shaped the land for millennia. The people who lived and worked on Dartmoor for centuries have left their mark and pierced through the the hills to get to the precious tin. From as far back as the 12th century, tin miners created gullies to follow the veins of tin ore back into the hillside. You can still see where the large water wheels were positioned at the tin mills. The tin was rinsed from the stone and melted down. The mills have long gone, as are the wheels, just leaving behind deep wounds in the hills and small mounds of waste spoil of earlier digging works. When you look closely at the hills around Challacombe farm you can see a round circle of stones on the hillside. This is a bronze-age village called Grimspound. Around 3500 years ago the village was built by celtic settlers who grazed their stock out on the hills to take them in to the enclosure at night to keep them safe from the undomesticated wild animals like wolves, at night. From this settlement where all that remains are a few round circles where the round houses used to be, you can see burial mounds on Hameldown and a stone row that is believed to be badly ‘renovated’ by the Victorians. On the other side of the hill the side appears to have been terraced. They were probably created by Medieval farmers in a time when the climate in Dartmoor was much warmer and drier. They must have used the strip fields for growing cereal crops. We passed a large stone wall which Inga told us used to be a rabbit warren, as rabbits used to be farmed for their meat here, centuries ago. It reminds me of the Roman Hare gardens which declined after they left Britain.
If were would have been walking on our own, we wouldn’t have noticed quite a few things.
We passed at ruined farm which Inga told us was still a home 50 years ago, opposite the ruin we found remains of an old Diesel mill which was active during the war when resource were scarce. After the war it was closed and never re-opened. By the look of the ruins, there must have been a real community up on the Moors. Now there are only a handful of houses left, most of them working farms. The first written mention of people living in the area at Challacombe farm appeares in the Domesday Book and you can still see the remains of 7 medieval dwellings of which one Dartmoor Longhouse where animals and people shared the same building to keep warm.
According to Challacombe farm there were 5 tenements at Challacombe in 1613 and they were in use until 1880. One of the buildings was a cider house to serve the many miners and farmers working the land. In fact there used to be a lot of pubs on the Moors.
After four hours of walking and a welcome slice of lemon cake from our lovely guide Inga, we make our way back.

Settlements from 1613, one of them a cider barn

Stonerow, renovated by the Victorians

Celtic round house

The outer enclosure of the Celtic village

a bit of stairs

We skipped lunch as the sweet fresh air has left us without an appetite. We decided to do yet another walk to North Bovey, a quaint and quiet village not far from Moretonhampstead. After a stroll around the village, the appetites are now well and truly transformed into raging hunger and we walk into The Ring Of Bells where local ale and a pub meal awaits us. After dinner we decided not to walk back to our farmhouse B&B, as were were really only ready to put on our pyjamas and take a trip to dreamland. Ask the bartender to book the cab when you arrive as there is only one, yes only one car running as a cab on the Moors.

The village people of North Bovey gathering at the pub

North Bovey, seen from the pub

Pretty village, North Bovey

Day four: The farmhouse and the curious cattle
The next morning we enjoy our room for a few hours, reading a book and gazing out of the window after a filling breakfast. Before we leave for Exeter again, we go on a walk round the farmhouse and the farms Aberdeen Angus and South Devon cows. We walk back to Moreton, and have a little walk around town again before we take the twelve O clock bus back to Exeter.

My kind of nook

The farmhouse and the curious cattle

Exeter
Back in Exeter we do a bit of window-shopping and we head down Magdalene road where a few small local food stores are. A fish monger, a butchers and a green grocers in one street. The coffee shops and small eateries are just a bonus to that. We enjoy a welcome Devon cream tea at Tea on the Green at Cathedral Close which is conveniently located near to our hotel. While visiting a few independent shops on Fore street, we get a dinner recommendation from a local girl.

Tea on the Green

The Real Food Store, good cake and freshly baked bread

A Butchers and a Fishmonger

The Fat Pig it is for dinner. We are told it is quiz night but we are kinda curious to see the event so we stay anyway. The Fat Pig is a buzzing pub which has its own smokehouse and brewery. The food is great and the home-brews are very satisfactory, the pub quiz is so funny with questions about serial killers and music that we stay until the end and enjoy a Whisky or two after our food and beer. We can you see, because we don’t have a car with us.
Cheerful
we return to our hotel, which isn’t a thirteenth century farmhouse but
still very comfortable and located on Cathedral Close – close to Tea on
the Green where we decided to have breakfast the next morning.

Chef at The Fat Pig

Smoked ribs and bangers at The Fat Pig

A little fog on Cathedral Close

Breakfast Hash on Tea on the Green – it’s a discovery, very hearty indeed

I had spotted the owners manifesto at Tea on the Green, he advocates using only small companies and local producers. Serving tea grown in England with the homemade scones and a divers selection of luncheon and breakfast dishes. I went for the small breakfast hash which was still quite large and full of juicy local sausage chunks, crunchy spuds and cheddar, topped with a fresh hens egg. Full again we are ready for a walk around town and at noon the trip back to the station where another splendid meal on the Pullman service awaits us.

Lunch service is more relaxed with only a few tables, it is tuesday after all. I had the daily fish, which was haddock with creamed leeks and the River Exe mussels which were absolutely gorgeous. I’m a mussel woman, I love mussels but I’m also very picky when it comes to mussels. These river Exe mussels had a very solid shell, unlike any other mussel, and were a large size and very meaty. I was intrigued by them I must say, my local mussels are quite small and have a very fragile shell unlike these ones from River Exe.

We have our coffee and dessert when we arrive in Reading and by the time we enter Paddington Station in London we are again, full and happy.

Conclusion
It is lovely to get away from a busy life without a car, taking the train leaves you both with the chance of reading a book, gazing out of the window or having a nice lunch or dinner while you are driven to your destination.
Would I do it again? Yes I would, Exeter has become a sweet little town with some good eateries and pubs; the last time I visited Exeter was with my parents on one of our trips, I can remember us being refused to enter a pub because I was a little girl. The town has transformed for the better with a mixture of independent shops and chains.
I would probably travel after april as there is a bus running across the Moors from may. That way you can go further without needing transport.

Practical

Getting to Dartmoor and Exeter without a car:
Take the train from Paddington station, it takes you to Exeter in just over two hours
The First Great Western Pullman lunch and dinner service requires a booking in advance if you don’t want to be disappointed
The bus to Moretonhampstead leaves from the main bus station in Exeter and runs every two hours, you can find the time table here

Where to stay
Moretonhampstead
Great Sloncombe farm B&B – a 20 minute walk from Moretonhampstead High street
They offer bike hire and when the weather is fine they can provide a BBQ and the option of buying some of their delicious meat. The rooms are traditional and comfortable
Other B&B’s: There are a few others in the village of Moretonhampstead, look here on the village website to find them

Exeter
The Royal Clarence hotel (Abode) with restaurant of Michael Caine (who we bumped into) The rooms are modern and comfortable

Walking

Walking Dartmoor with a local: Inga from ‘Dartmoor walks this way’ was amazing, highly recommended made to measure walks. She also does bike tours with electric bikes. Email her with your questions. If you’re lucky she will bring you cake!
Walking to North Bovey, in Moretonhampstead, turn in Pound Street and follow the signs
Plenty of walks and bike tours start at Moretonhampstead, that’s why the village is an ideal base. There’s a tourist information center where you can purchase maps and such.

Where to eat and drink
Dartmoor
The White Heart (Moretonhampstead): great food and local ales, good value
The White Horse (Moretonhampstead): Locals tell us they serve excellent pizza
The Gateway Tearooms (Moretonhampstead): essential Devon cream tea
The Union Inn (Moretonhampstead): pub with beer garden and local ales
The Ring of Bells (North Bovey): Pub with pleasant beer garden, local ales and pub food

Where to eat and drink
Exeter
The Fat Pig – 2 St John Street: pub, brewery and smokehouse: Great smoked meats and hand cut chips, home brewed beers and other craft ales
The Rusty Bike – 67 Howell Road: Pub from the same owners as The Fat Pig
The Real Food Store – 11 Paris street: Organic shop with cafe upstairs
Tea On the Green – Cathedral Close: Tearoom serving excellent scones, hearty breakfasts and lunches with local produce

Shops for food
The local butchers at Moretonhampstead, sell local cheeses, pork pies, meats and some other foodie delights
The Real Food Store – 11 Paris street, Exeter: Organic shop with cafe upstairs. Serving local food and baking decent bread daily
Pipers Farm Butchers – Magdalene road Exeter
Gibson’s Plaice Fish monger – Magdalene road Exeter
Infinity foods – 25 North Road Exeter

Other shops
Haberdashery: Otton’s – 111 Fore Street Exeter
Vintage clothing: divers shops also on Fore Street Exeter
Gifts: Magdalene street has plenty of gift shops

*Everything on this trip was bought and payed for by me except the train tickets who were a kind gift from First Great Western Railways. My views are my own.*

The post A weekend away in Britain: Dartmoor and Exeter by train appeared first on Miss Foodwise.