Flemish / Dutch cooking Archives - Miss Foodwise

Buns for Saint Hubert: Mastellen from Ghent

Regula — Thu, 09 Aug 2018 16:06:08 +0000

The city of Ghent ’s most famous bake is called ‘Mastel’ and it is a soft bun flavoured with cinnamon shaped into a round with a dimple in the middle made by pressing down four fingers in the dough. The name Mastel comes from ‘masteluin’ a bread mixture made with wheat and rye flour, it was an old practice to grow the two grains mixed on one single field to improve yield. Since medieval times the bun was consecrated by a priest and eaten as a preventative against hydrophobia or rabies on the feast of St Hubert on 3 november. Today the bun is often blessed on the 3rd of november but no one really believes it will protect them from hydrophobia or rage.

Mastellen are also sold dried to use for making a pudding called ‘Aalsterse Vlaai’ and the dried out bun was also often soaked in buttermilk to eat as a gruel. A custom that is in decline is that of the ‘ironed mastel’ where a mastel bun is sliced in two and spread with butter and a generous topping of brown sugar. The bun is then crushed under the weight and heat of an old fashioned heavy cast iron well eh – iron. The kind that used to be kept on the stove. The result is a crisp biscuit that resembles a Lackman waffle. Truly delicious. This ironing of the mastel is popular on the first weekend of august in the Ghent area called Patershol during the Patershol feasts, a jolly folk festival in one of Ghent’s most culturally diverse area, it is therefore also called Coté Culture. (Patersholfeesten are his weekend if you’re in the area! Also check previous post on where to go and eat in Ghent – I will be adding to this post over time.)

The custom of eating consecrated bread on St Huberts day comes from the story that the saint cured a man of rabies by giving him bread to eat. St Hubert was the Bishop of Liege and the patron saint of hunters, on the 3rd of november an event takes place in Liege where the hunting hounds, masters and staff are blessed by a priest. This date also marks the start of the hunting season.

There are other places where the custom of eating a special spiced bun or bread on St Hubert is still alive, the area round Essen in Belgium where they carry a carved in cross and are called ‘Huubkes’ after St Hubert and other areas of East Flanders of which Ghent is the capital. In the the Dutch town of Breda in Brabant, the buns are called Hupkes and the tradition is identical. God fearing farmers even ordered the consecrated buns to feed to their livestock to protect them from disease. Some bakers have to go to church with their baskets of mastellen, Huubkes, or Hupkes, other priests come to the bakery to give their blessing there.

Originally the St Hubert buns were flavoured with aniseed and in some areas they still are, others are made with raisins, but for as long as anyone can remember their seasoning in Ghent has been cinnamon, and I’m sad to say that even the cinnamon version is getting rarer as my local market in the town I just left, only sold a few with cinnamon, most of the mastellen were plain buns.

It is very possible the custom of eating a blessed bread, either with a dimple made with four fingers or a cross comes from pagan times as st Hubert is known for evangelising pagans in the Ardennes forests in Belgium (then France). The best way to assimilate is to take over customs, something christianity is famous for as many christian traditions are adaptations of pagan rites.

The recipe for these mastel buns are those that are sold today, the buns sold in the 8th century would have been much more heavy and not to modern taste. As with everything, the recipe evolved over time to what it is today.

Special thanks to Ilse Buyens, a former baker in the Essen area and a friend for nearly 20 years!

Recipe

What do you need, For 15 mastellen

500g bread flour
50g raw cane sugar (or plain)
2,5 g cinnamon (or anisseed, crushed)
230ml full fat milk
15 g dried yeast
70g butter, room temperature
2 medium free range eggs
10g seasalt
1 egg + 1 tsp of milk for egg washing

Method

Place your flour and sugar in the bowl of a mixer and add the cinnamon or other seasoning, warm the milk a little and add the yeast so that it can foam up.

Pour half your milk and yeast mixture in the mixer along with one beaten egg and the butter. Knead on medium and when combined add the rest of the milk and the second egg and finally the salt. Knead on slow for 15 minutes then let the dough rise for 30 minutes, covered.

Make balls of dough of about 50 grams per ball, let them rest for 10 minutes.

Now shape the balls to whatever shape you like, just plain round for a traditional shape, placed close to each other so they are stuck together after baking and place them on your baking tray, now press four fingers down in the middle to create the dimple. Cover with a cloth and let the buns rise for 40 minutes.

When you are ready to bake egg wash the top of the buns to give them a shine.

Preheat your oven to 225°c and bake for about 10 minutes or until golden brown.

Recipe for “ironed” Mastellen

Slice a bun in half, spread generously with butter, top with brown sugar, place between two sheets of baking paper and use a hot iron or a heated heave based pan to crush the bun. Some people use a toastie machine.

You might also like
This travel post for Ghent >

The post Buns for Saint Hubert: Mastellen from Ghent appeared first on Miss Foodwise.

Traditional lowland gingerbread: kruidnoten

Regula — Sun, 04 Dec 2011 19:01:00 +0000

The feast of ‘Sinterklaas’ is on December 6

‘Sinterklaas’ is a traditional Winter holiday figure still celebrated today in Belgium and the Netherlands and other parts of Europe.

Saint Nickolas is an elderly man wit a long full white beard. He carries a big book that tells whether each child has been good or naughty in the past year. He traditionally rides a white gray and delivers the gifts to the children by riding his horse over the rooftops assisted by his helper ‘Zwarte Piet’ (black Pete) who’s face is blackened from the soot of the chimneys.

Parallels have been drawn between the legend of ‘Sinterklaas’ and the figure of Odin, an important god to the Germanic people and worshiped in North and Western Europe prior to Christianization. He was accompanied by black ravens, Huginn and Muninn, who symbolised the night – Odin himself was the embodiment of light.

Other European countries see their Sinterklaas accompanied by a black demon with a long red tongue, his name: Krampus. Naughty children would be punished by Krampus, just as Zwarte piet in Belgium and the Netherlands would stick the naughty children in their large hessian sacks and abduct them. Fear is always a part of ancient traditions, though in recent years the scary part has been completely erased in my area, focussing on not getting any presents if you’ve been bad, rather than being abducted in a sack by the blackened Zwarte Piet. There’s also been a lot of controversy surrounding the recent version of our black demon. At some point in the Netherlands, Zwarte Piet grew black curls to accompany his blackened face, the blackness now completely covering the whole body with black gloves and stockings to complete the look of an African lackey. The story had changed from that of the ancient natural religions of night and day, good and evil, to a story that Sinterklaas freed slaves in Spain who then pledged their allegiance to him out of gratitude. The image of Zwarte Piet was a happy one, he was always depicted with a broad smile, but behind that smile a lot of negative thoughts appeared and in the last decade it’s been frowned upon to dress Zwarte Piet with black curls and lackey clothes – and rightly so. Traditions change all the time, and there is no definite tradition of Sinterklaas, so this change from Zwarte Piet to Roetpiet – or Black Pete to Pete Soot is a good evolution of the custom.

For children it’s never about politics, but all about gifts and sweets. It is customary to put one shoe in front of the fireplace on the 5th of december. The evening is called ‘Sinterklaasavond’ or ‘Pakjesavond’ (boxing evening). Carrots, turnips or apples are put in the shoe as a treat for ‘Sinterklaas’ horse. Sometimes a bottle of beer would be left for Zwarte Piet. The next morning the carrot would be gone, the beer bottle empty and the children may find candy or a small present in their shoes.

When I was a child I used to go and choose the best looking and largest carrot and turnip at the market. The next morning, there were chunks bitten out of the carrot and turnip and the beer bottle was empty. How magical!

We all knew there was no ‘father christmas’, ‘Santa’ or ‘Santaklaus’ but we were firm believers of ‘Sinterklaas’. I remember the disappointment I felt when I found out ‘Sinterklaas’ didn’t exist. I was in bed, trying to stay awake so I could see ‘Zwarte Piet’ as he came down our chimney. I didn’t see him, I heard my parents whispering about my present and assembling the dolls house I’d asked for. The disillusion was gigantic and I remained shocked for days. I didn’t tell my parents “I knew” until the next year when they told me themselves, I desperately wanted to hang on – I wanted to believe.

In Belgium they say finding out that ‘Sinterklaas’ doesn’t exist is the first disappointment you have in life. After that, you are a big girl or boy.

Typical ‘Sinterklaas’ treats traditionally include: mandarins, oranges, kruidnoten, pepernoten, chocolate letters (the first letter of the child’s name), speculaas, chocolate coins, marzipan figures and fruit and a figurine of ‘Sinterklaas’ made of chocolate.

The ‘kruidnoten’ (spiced nuts) are traditionally thrown into the corner of the room by the ‘ Zwarte Pieten’, some say this was to warn of evil spirits.

These little round cookies date back to the Middle Ages due to the arrival of exotic spices such as pepper. Pepper was thought to possess aphrodisiacal powers and was therefore used to bake fertility cookies. These were thrown at newly weds on their wedding day alongside traditional fertility symbols like rice and flowers.

This throwing of fertility symbols had also been part of an old pagan sowing feast that was celebrated at the beginning of December. The throwing resembled the farmer that sows his fields and it was meant to invoke good spirits.

Under the influence of the Catholic Church the sowing feast had slowly been replaced in the 16th century by the ‘Saint Nicholas feast’. But traces of the pagan tradition survived by throwing the then fashionable ‘pepernoten'(similar to kruidnoten) around.

So this is my recipe for the little ‘kruidnoten’, if you need to warn of evil spirits or invoke good ones, you better get started.

What do you need

250 g rye flour

1 tsp of baking powder

125 g dark brown sugar

100 g soft butter

3 tablespoons milk

1 tablespoon ‘speculaas spice mix’ (see below)

a pinch of sea salt

For the speculaas spice mix:

6 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon ground clove

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon aniseed

Method

Line a tray with greaseproof paper and preheat your oven to 160° C

Mix all the ingredients together and knead briefly to combine well.

Shape little balls, the size of a nutmeg and place on the prepped tray, leaving space for them to expand.

Bake them in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes.

Optional: after they are baked, you can dip these little biscuits into chocolate. I feel dark chocolate works best with the taste of the spices.
Store in an airtight container to keep the biscuits crunchy.

Don’t forget to put your shoe by the fireplace tonight…

I gave these cookies to my co-workers

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