20th century Archives - Miss Foodwise

‘The Downton Abbey Christmas Cookbook’ my new book

Regula — Mon, 26 Oct 2020 08:45:17 +0000

I’m happy to announce the publication of my new book: ‘The Official Downton Abbey Christmas Cookbook’!<
(Scroll down for the reference list which wasn’t printed in the book because of the page count limit)

For this book I jumped into my collection of cookery books of not only the early 20th century in which Downton is set but also the Victorian era when our most beloved cook Mrs Patmore was training as a chef. I made a little excursion into the oldest cookery book in the English language for the first festive recipe for goose and witnessed the curiosity for continental cooking around the late 1920’s.

I also uncovered a celebration of strong women, from the extraordinary position of Mrs Patmore as a female chef in a period when men were still lord and master in the kitchens of the aristocratic households. But also Lady Edith’s story of breaking loose from the limitations that come with her social position as a woman from a great family pursuing a career as a columnist and later as the editor. She symbolises the modern times ahead in which women will not only gain more freedoms, but also the right to vote — with the suffragette movement in the headlines. Many of the recipes I chose came from cookbooks written by women, and some women, like England’s first freelance food journalist; Florence White, and Lady Agnes Jekyll were very much like Lady Edith. Others were cookbooks written by aristocratic ladies like Lady Cora Crawley with recipes gifted to them by other ladies of her circle.

This book is a celebration of Christmas, showing you where those traditional old customs come from and how some of them aren’t very old at all. Popularised by Charles Dickens ‘A Christmas Carol’ todays Christmas is what he made of it. Reviving long lost customs and placing family at the centre of it all. This book praises history but also looks at change. There’s patriotic pudding and emblematic beef, stunning pies and unexpected treats seasoned with many stories which makes this book not only very Downton, but also very Regula.

Flemish food writer and culinary historian Regula Ysewijn has brought to life not only the dishes of the Downton era but also some of the magnificent edible delights of earlier centuries. It is a brilliantly researched book full of tasty treats. I do hope you enjoy it.
— Julian Fellowes, Creator of Downton Abbey

This is a beautiful book that goes beyond the expected foods of Christmas to show us delights we’ve long forgotten. Regula’s customary combination of solid research and gastronomic flair has unearthed a world of often surprising recipes seen through the lens of Downton Abbey.
— Dr. Annie Gray, Food Historian

I was invited to write this book in November and when I started my research in januari I had no idea I would be creating this book during a pandemic. After a lot of hurdles along the way, with the publishing team in lockdown on the other side of the world in a different timezone and the photoshoot in NYC cancelled more than once due to restrictions and printers closing and backlogging, we are more and excited we managed to bring out this book in time for Christmas 2020. This feels like a triumph.

The Official Downton Abbey Christmas Cookbook

By Regula Ysewijn
With a foreword by Dr Annie Gray
Release 27-29 oktober, Weldon Owen US, Titan Books UK, DK Verlag Germany

Traditional Christmas dishes include:

Palestine Soup
Sole à la Dorchester
Jugged Hare with Prunesand Raisins
Recipes for iconic roast beef, turkey and goose
Duck with Orange, Lemon, and Olives
Yorkshire Christmas Pie
Spinach Balls à l’Italienne
Bread sauce
Anchovy Éclairs
Plum Pudding
Wartime Christmas Pudding
Nesselrode Ice Pudding
Whitby Yule Cake
Epiphany Tart
Cambridge Milk Punch

Signed Copies

Cookbook Bake in Brighton-Hove in England has signed copies of this book as wel as my recently published ‘Oats in the North, Wheat from the South’. Signed copies can always be obtained in Belgium at Luddites in Antwerp instore and online.

Two books in one year, I surely didn’t plan that!

Reference list of books consulted

As we reached our page count there was no room for my reference list, hence why I am giving it here for those geeks like me who usually skip right to the bibliography before reading the actual book.

A Book of Cookrye, AW, 1584
A Book Of Scents And Dishes, Dorothy Allhusen, 1920
A Christmas Garland, John C. Nimmo, 1885
A Christmas Carol, Charles Dickens, 1843
A Christmas Tree, Charles Dickens, 1850
A Dictionary of Biblical Tradition in English Literature, David Lyle Jeffrey, 1992
A History of New York, from the Beginning of the World to the End …,Washington Irving, 1809
A Mummers’ Play from Limpley Stoke, Academic Journal Offprint from – Wiltshire Archaeology 83, Felicity Gilmour, 1990
A Right Merrie Christmas. London: Leadenhall Press, ca. 1890; repr. New York: Benjamin Blom, John Ashton, 1968
Antiquitates Vulgares: Or, The Antiquities of the Common People, Henry Bourne, 1725
Apician morsels; or, Tales of the table, kitchen and larder by Secundus, Dick Humelbergius, 1829
Beef Cattle Production and Trade, edited by Lewis Kahn, David Cottle, 2020
Book of Salads, Alfred Suzanne; C. Herman Senn, 1906
Cakes and Ale, Edward Spencer, 1913
Christian, Roy, Old English Customs, Roy Christian, 1972
Christmas carols ancient and modern, Tomlins, William Lawrence, 1844-1930, edited by William Sandys, 1830
Christmas Carols, ancient and modern by William Sandys (1792–1874), 1833
Christmas entertainments: wherein is described abundance of fiddle-faddle-stuff : curious memoirs of old Father Christmas : illustrated with many diverting cuts, Field & Tuer, 1740
Christmas Husbandry Fare, Thomas Tusser, 1515- 1580
Christmas in the Olden Time by Sir Walter Scott, 1886
Christmas With The Poets, a collection of songs, carols, and descriptive verses relating to the festival of Christmas, from the Anglo-Norman period to the present time / embellished with fifty-three tinted illustrations by Birket Foster, and with initial letters and other ornaments, 1855
Christmas, His Masque, Benjamin Jonson, Alternate Title: The Masque of Christmas Date first performed: Dec 1616- Date first published: 1640
Christmas: Its Origin and Associations Together with Its Historical Events and Festive Celebrations During Nineteen Centuries, William Francis Dawson, 1902
Christmas: Its Origin and Associations: Together with Its Historical Events and Festive …in the nineteenth century, William Francis Dawson. E. Stock, 1902
Christmasse carolles newely enprinted, Wynkyn de Worde, This manuscript was previously known as “Douce Fragment 94b, 1521
Clavis calendaria; or, A compendious analysis of the calendar, Volume 2, John Brady, 1815
Common Sense in the Household: A Manual of Practical Housewifery, Marion Harland, 1874
Curye on Inglysch (Middle English recipes), C.B. Hieatt en S. Butler, 1985
Diary, Samuel Pepys
Ecclesiastical History of the English People, Bede, Oxford university press, 1999
Encyclopedia of Food Sciences and Nutrition (Second Edition), P.J. Hudson, in 2003
English Presbyterian Eloquence, Thomas Lewis, 1720
Epigrams theological, philosophical, and romantick: also the Socratick session, or, The arraignment and conviction of Julius Scaliger : with other select poems, Samuel Sheppard, 1651
Farmers Almanac, 18th century, exact date unknown, Online edition over at: https://www.almanac.com/
Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry, Thomas Tusser, 1585, edition. 1812
Fletcher’s Poems and Translations, 1656
Food in England, Dorothy Hartley, 1954
Good things in England, Florence White, 1932
Great British Gardeners: From the Early Plantsmen to Chelsea Medal Winners, Vanessa Berridge, 2018
Hesperides, Robert Herrick, 1648, As reproduced in: William Henry Husk, Songs of the Nativity (London: John Camden Hotten, 1868)
Italian Regional Cooking, Ada Boni, translated by Maria Langdale and Ursula Whyte, 1969
Kalm’s account of his visit to England : on his way to America in 1748, Pehr Kalm, 1892
Kitchen Essays, Agnes Jekyll, 1922
Langland, 1340, Piers Plowman
London Bewitched, 1708
London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1, Henry Mayhew, 1851
London images: John Camden Hotten, 1868
Luncheon and Dinner Sweets, C. Herman Senn, 1911
Mary Tudor: The First Queen. London: Little, Brown, Porter, Linda, 2007
Mémoires et observations faites par un voyageur en Angleterre, Misson Francis Maximilian, 1698
Modern Cookery, for Private Families, Eliza Acton, 1845
Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Management, Isabella Beeton, 1861
New century cookbook, Charles Herman Senn, 1904
Nursery Rhymes of England, James Orchard, 1842
Observations on Popular Antiquities: Chiefly Illustrating the Origin of Our Vulgar Customs, Ceremonies, and Superstitions, Volume 1, John Brand, 1813
Observations on the Popular Antiquities of Great Britain: Chiefly …, Volume 1 By John Brand, 1813
Oxford Night Caps, by Richard Cook, Published 1835
Oxford Night Caps: Being a Collection of Receipts for Making Various Beverages Used in the University, Richard Cook Slatter & Rose, 1871
Poems of Places: An Anthology in 31 Volumes, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, ed., 1876–79
Poems on several occasions, and translations: wherein the first and second books of Virgil’s Æneis are attempted, in English. Thomas Fletcher, 1692.
Reliquiæ Antiquæ: Scraps from Ancient Manuscripts, Illustrating Chiefly Early English Literature and the English Language, Volume 1, Thomas Wright, James Orchard Halliwell-Phillipps William Pickering, 1841, reprinted by Norwood Editions, Norwood, PA, 1973
Round about our Coal Fire, or, Christmas Entertainments … with some curious Memories of Old Father Christmas; Shewing what Hospitality was in former Times, and how little there remains of it at present. – 1734, reprinted 1796, Anonymous (‘Dick Merryman’)
Royal Museum Greenwich: https://www.rmg.co.uk/discover/behind-the-scenes/blog/proof-in-the-pudding – mention of Christmas pudding gifted to soldiers by Lady Rawlinson, wife of Lieutenant General Sir Henry Rawlinson
Scotland: Vols. VI–VIII. 1876–79
Songs of the Nativity, William Henry Husk, 1868
Soyer’s Standard Cookery: A Complete Guide to the Art of Cooking Dainty, Varied, and Economical Dishes for the Household, 1912, [Soyer, Nicolas
Spices, salt and aromatics in the English kitchen, Elizabeth David,
Sports and Pastimes of Merry England”, 1859, Thomas Miller “
Sports and Pastimes of Merry England”:Thomas Miller
The Art of Cookery, John Mollard, 1803
The Art of Cookery…, Hannah Glasse, 1747
The ‘Boar’s Head Carol’ and Folk Tradition in Folklore, James E. Spears, 1974,
The accomplished cook, Robert May, 1660
THE ARRAIGNMENT Conviction and Imprisonment of CHRISTMAS,1645, Simon Minc’d Pye,
The Book of Days: A Miscellany of Popular Antiquities in …, Volume 2 By Robert Chambers, 1832
The book of vegetable cookery, Erroll Sherrson, 1931
The complete practical cook: or, a new system of the whole art and mystery of cookery, Charles Carter, 1730
The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie, Catherine Frances Frere, 1909
The Country Housewife and Lady’s Director, Richard Bradley, 1727
The Crayon: Volume 7, William James Stillman, John Durand, 31 December 1859
The Curiosities of Ale & Beer: An Entertaining History, John Bickerdyke, 1889
The diary of a country parson, edited by John Beresford, James Woodforde, 1740-1803.
The diary of John Evelyn; by Evelyn, John, 1620-1706; Bray, William, 1736-1832
The Dudley Book of Cookery and Household Recipes, Georgiana Countess of Dudley, 1909
The Franklin’s Tale, The Canterbury Tales, Geoffrey Chaucer, 1387 -1400
The Gentle Art of Cookery, Mrs C. F. Leyel and Miss Olga Hartley, 1925
The Gentleman’s Magazine, Volume 94, Part 2; Volume 136, A. Dodd and A. Smith, 1824
The Gentleman’s Magazine and Historical Chronicle, Karl Blind, “Boars Head Dinner at Oxford, and a Germanic Sun-God,” in John Nichols, ed. , Volume 242, 1877
The Gentleman’s Magazine, december, 1733, p 652
The Great War cookbook’, May Byron’s, 1915, re-issued 2014
The Greedy Queen: Eating with Victoria, Dr Annie Gray, 2017
The Krampus and the Old, Dark Christmas: Roots and Rebirth of the Folkloric …By Al Ridenour, 2016
The letters of Charles Lamb, with a sketch of his life. The poetical works. Charles Lamb, Thomas Noon, 1838
The Modern Baker, Confectioner and Caterer. A Practical and Scientific Work for the Baking and Allied Trades. In 6 volumes. John Kirkland, 1913
The Modern Cook, Charles Elmé Francatelli, 1845
The New Oxford Book of Carols, Hugh Keyte, Andrew Parrott, 1992
The official Downton Abbey Cookbook, Dr Annie Gray, 2019
The Oxford Companion to sugar and sweets, Darra Goldstein, 2015
The Progresses and Public Processions of Queen Elizabeth …, John Nichols, 1823
The Riches of Chaucer: In which His Impurities Have Been Expunged, His Spelling Modernised, His Rhythm Accentuated and His Obsolete Terms Explained; Also Have Been Added a Few Explanatory Notes and a New Memoir of the Poet, Volume 1, E. Wilson, 1835
The Royal English and Foreign Confectionery Book, Charles Elmé Francatelli, 1862
The Victorian Gardene, Caroline Ikin, 2014
The Vindication of Christmas, John Taylor, 1652
The Works of Jonathan Swift, Containing Interesting and Valuable Papers, Not Hitherto Published … With Memoir of the Author, Volume 1, Jonathan Swift, Thomas Roscoe H.G. Bohn, 1843
The works of Mr. John Cleveland containing his poems, orations, epistles, collected into one volume, with the life of the author. Cleveland, John, 1613-1658.
The Book of Christmas,Thomas Hervey, 1836
Vanity Fair, William Makepeace Thackeray, 1847-48
Women who cry Oranges, from Works, Jonathan Swift, 1755
Works of Robert Herrick. vol II. Alfred Pollard, ed. London, Lawrence & Bullen, 1891

You might also like my other 2020 publication ‘Oats in the North, Wheat from the South’

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Burleigh Pottery x Regula Ysewijn Competition

Regula — Mon, 19 Oct 2020 09:03:55 +0000

I am a huge Burleigh Pottery fan, as you will know if you have been following me on this website and my Instagram. I have used almost exclusively British pottery in my cookbooks Pride and Pudding and Oats in the North, Wheat in the South and a lot of that is Burleigh ware. That’s why Burleigh Pottery and I thought it was a super idea to team up to celebrate British pottery and my latest book on British baking! As an extra treat I’m finally sharing the pictures I took at Middleport Pottery many years ago, scroll down to find a reportage.

On to the giveaway! The winner will receive my book Oats in the North, Wheat in the South and Burleigh Pottery are offering this amazing Blue Calico (my favourite!) set worth over £250 consisting of:
A Blue Calico Teapot
A small milk jug
A sugar bowl
A large cake plate
2 dessert plates
2 teacups and saucers

All you need to do to be in the running to win is follow @burleighpottery and me @missfoodwise on Instagram and comment telling us why you’d love to win this incredible set of British pottery! You will have extra bonus entries if you share the competition page from @burleighpottery in an Instagram story, or if you bake my Treacle pumpkin tart recipe on the Burleigh website and share a picture of it on Instagram tagging us both (so we can see it and share!). Competition ends 31 oktober!

Burleigh ware is made by hand at the iconic Middleport Pottery in Stoke On Trent, it is the last working Victorian pottery in England. Burgess & Leigh was established in 1851. “Burleigh” is a combination of the two names William Leigh and Frederick Rathbone Burgess who were the founders. In my book Oats in the North, Wheat from the South’ which tells the history of British bakes and how the diverse climate of the British Isles influenced the growth of cereal crops and the development of a rich regional baking identity, you’ll read the story of the staple food of the pottery workers in the North of England and how these bakes are a fantastic relevant and healthy breakfast or lunch option today.

But since Halloween or Samhain is upon us I wanted to create a treacle tart with pumpkin for a very English pumpkin pie for this occasion. This recipe was adapted from the treacle tart recipe my latest book ‘Oats in the North, Wheat from the South’. Combining breadcrumbs with a sweet syrup in baked goods dates from before the 19th century, but the treacle tart that we know today came into existence sometime after the invention of the iconic golden syrup in 1883. It’s called “treacle tart” and not “golden syrup tart” because “treacle” is the general term for by-products of the sugar-refining process. Pecans are a nice addition to the tart crust, but don’t hesitate to replace them with more flour. See recipe on the Burleigh Pottery website here >

A couple of years ago I had the huge privilege to visit Middleport Pottery for a unique inside look into its Victorian buildings. Everything was covered in a thin layer of white dust, huge slabs of clay ready by the door. It was quiet and where there were people working, it felt like it was even quieter. The orange brickwork of the pottery was a bright light on a grey day which felt more like oktober than june. Behind an unassuming door I found a treasure trove of moulds, some over a century old. There were moulds for teacups, plates but also elaborate jelly moulds and other decorative pieces. The layer of dust on them acted like a blanket, where they rest until they can be used and produced again. The sleeping pottery of Middleport.
The only regret I have is that no one told us about the canal on the other side of the building, a place where barges come and go and where you can see the unique tower-high factory chimneys. I hope that one day, when this pandemic is over, I can travel here again, to walk by the streams in the beautiful Peak District and to once again enter the archway of Middleport pottery and make my photo reportage complete.

The mould room at Middleport pottery where Burleigh is made

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War & Peace Pudding with Mock Apricot Jam – for the 75th anniversary of ‘Victory in Europe Day’ A Recipe from Pride and Pudding

Regula — Fri, 08 May 2020 08:48:29 +0000

Today 8 may I’ll be showing two war-time recipes over at London’s Borough Market for the 75th anniversary of ‘Victory in Europe Day’ or the end of WWII.
While world wars and lockdown are very different, both have led to difficulties obtaining certain ingredients. We’ll be looking at two war-time recipes that were actually promoted by the Ministry of Food because there was an overload of carrots and potatoes. Recipe booklets were made to help cooks to whip up a variety of recipes with carrots and potatoes and other austere but often very delicious creative recipes
We’ll be cooking up “War & Peace Pudding” with “Mock apricot” carrot jam, both wartime recipes from my book Pride and Pudding. Tune into our IGTV over at Borough Market on Instagram

During wartime, ingredients for plum pudding were hard to come by so the Ministry of Food produced a recipe for a ‘War and Peace Pudding’ made of carrots, potatoes and suet.

The recipe also appeared as a ‘Wartime Christmas Pudding’. Carrots and potato were both promoted by the Ministry of Food because they grew easily and were plentiful, and therefore they were important to keep people healthy. Potato was often used as an alternative to other ingredients in dishes and carrots were used because of their sweet flavour. At some point ‘carrots on sticks’ were sold to children instead of ice cream – which was banned – and ‘toffee carrots’ replaced toffee apples.

This is an excellent pudding and the “mock apricot” carrot jam absolutely sublime and a great novelty for when dinner parties are back allowed!

War & Peace Pudding

Makes 1 pudding in a 14 cm (No. 42) diameter basin (mould)

75 g carrots, grated

100 g potatoes, grated

85 g plain (all-purpose) flour

30 g fresh breadcrumbs

30 g shredded suet

1 teaspoon ground allspice

or mixed spice

1 teaspoon bicarbonate

of soda (baking soda)

2 tablespoons warm water

1 tablespoon mixed dried

fruit, soaked in water, rum or brandy

Method

Preheat the oven to 160C. Prepare the pudding basins for steaming

In a large bowl, combine the carrot, potato, flour, breadcrumbs, suet and allspice. Dissolve the bicarbonate of soda in the water and add to the mixture. On a lightly floured work surface, knead into a ball. Don’t be alarmed if the mixture seems dry, it will come together after kneading it for a few minutes.

Work through the mixed dried fruit and roll the dough into a ball. Put the ball into the prepared pudding basin and push it down. Close the pudding basin off with baking paper and wrap in tin foil. Place on an inverted saucer in a pot large enough for the pudding basin and pour in boiling water to come up halfway the sides of the basin. Close the lid, cover any steaming holes the lid might have and steam for 2 hours.

Serve with carrot jam

“Mock apricot” Carrot jam

500 g carrot puree made from boiled carrots

500 g raw sugar

juice of 1 lemon

zest of 1/2 lemon, grated or cut into fine strips

5 apricot kernels

2 tablespoons brandy

Put the carrot puree in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the sugar, lemon juice and zest and apricot kernels.

Boil until the mixture has thickened and gels quickly when spooned onto a cold plate.

Remove from the heat and take out the apricot kernels if you can spot them. Stir the brandy through the jam and decant into sterilised jars. Close the jars and turn them upside down to cool.

The jam has a hint of apricot; it was marketed as mock apricot jam.

This jam doesn’t keep long and must be stored in the fridge.

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