Travel Britain

Borough Market – not just a food market

13th June 2017 by Regula 1 Comment

I’ve been planning to write about Borough Market for a very long time, the draft has been in my folder waiting for the right moment, and now the time couldn’t be more poignant. After last weeks terrible events where the market was the victim of a senseless attack I knew I had to write this. Now over a week later, the market is finally opening again and now more than ever the market traders and surrounding restaurants and bars need your support.

Most of the traders are very small often family owned businesses. Loosing a week of custom, and getting over the fact that this beautiful multicultural market was soiled with violence is tough. We all know the way forward it to ‘keep calm and carry on’ so please if you are in London, take the tube to London Bridge Station and do your shopping at Borough Market. Meet there for lunch or dinner or after-work-drinks. It’s safe, probably safer than it has ever been. But mostly, it is a statement, that we will not let terrorism dictate our lives.

On my first ever visit to Borough Market 7 years ago, I never thought that today I would be working for them and writing for their mag and website. Now nearly two years ago I became a photographer for the Borough Market magazine called ‘Market Life’. It is beautifully produced and jam-packed with interesting content. Stories about the market traders and their lives, the produce, the provenance and the events at the market which have become plentiful over the years. There are panel talks, tastings, cookery demonstrations and there even is a Cookbook Club. It is such a community. I’ve worked with many of the market traders, sourcing produce for shoots, they’ve been generous with advise and for some shoots they’ve even been on hand to help me. That is why I was especially shaken by the sadness that happened last week. My first thoughts were with the traders and the people who work tirelessly behind the scenes in the Borough Market office. The people I love to work with.

Borough Market is life, it is hope. It is a place where gender, sexual orientation, colour, religion or political preference doesn’t matter. It’s food, only food. That what keeps us alive, that what we live for, that what brings people together. The market sent out a statement and I want to share with you:

Now more than ever, we need to remind ourselves that what we do here matters. A food market has nothing to do with hate. A food market is about sustenance and wellbeing, pleasure and sharing, companionship and family. That’s why it’s important.

This post was supposed to be about the history of Borough Market, but for now, it is about the present and the future……

The Pig near Bath

9th February 2016 by Regula 3 Comments

I arrived at the mansion that is the home of The Pig near Bath after a long november day. It was dark, rainy and my feet were stiff and cold from being in my red wellies for over 8 hours.

Stepping through the door at this house full of history and historical artefacts you will be slightly overwhelmed by the grandness which feels slightly out of place in this modern throw-away society. But modern it is, none the less. Although the manor looks like it has been frozen in time since the Georgean era, it was not long ago a derelict and forgotten place. The kitchen garden was no more than a gardeners nightmare but the house and its garden had been in the back of someone’s head for a long while: the current owner who opened it up once again as a hotel, naming it after my most cherished animal: the pig.

The home of The Pig is Hunstrete House and has been a hotel for many years. At one time it was managed by a husband and wife team, he did the cooking and she was the front of house. But after that it went from one owner to the next eventually falling in disrepair.

It took some love and effort to turn the house around, and the head gardner told me the kitchen garden it took 5 months of weeding before it was even possible to sow. But in march 2013 they were ready to open, and surprisingly it looks like it has been here like this for hundreds of years without having changed at all. The Pig’s philosophy evolves around the kitchen garden and a 25 mile menu. This means that all the food is either home grown, or sourced in a radius of 25 miles. The beer and cider as well, presenting a nice selection to have fun with pairing with your food. For me personally this is important as I do prefer a decent beer or cider with my food. I like to play with the flavours and it also feels so much less formal and heavy than wine. But I’m Belgian so I might be a bit biaised when it comes to beer!

I’m checked in and taken back outside along the corridor which is filled with colourful wellies, around the stately home to my room. It is pitch black, and I’m tired because I have been travelling from North Devon and had an early start that morning. The door to my room is opened and I realise I have my own little log cabin, complete with log burner, comfy chairs and a large bed with a lot of pillows. I throw myself onto the bed, legs and arms spread, it feels as if I’m being caught in the air by a fluffy cloud. Ah bliss…

Every once and a while you need that weekend away, a few days of hanging around reading books, gazing out of the window in the morning when the fog is still embracing the landscape and knowing that you are not going to do anything of much worldly importance that day. An indulging slow breakfast with more views over countryside, to see it awake and change color. Everything that bothers you in daily life becomes muted and trivial, relax mode takes over. I did a lot of writing for my book in this cosy log cabin too.

I could stay in there for a week, waking up early, having walks before breakfast on the estate watching the deer, the pigs, the chickens and then books, reading plenty of books….

A winter visit to Bath

15th December 2015 by Regula 5 Comments

It was a crisp winters day when we took the train from London Paddington to Bath on an early februari morning.

Bath must be one of my all time favourite cities to go to in England, the Somerset town is small enough so you don’t have the hassle of having to work out buss and underground systems and large enough to spend the day walking and taking in the gorgeous sights. The city has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, something that won’t surprise you when you arrive.

Bath is named as such because it is and has been a spa town since Roman times and possibly even before that. The Roman Baths are still one of the city’s largest attractions and they are well worth a visit. When we visited on a gorgeous winter morning in february, we were alone for most of our visit which was quite magical. After the Roman empire fell in the first decade of the 5th century, the Roman baths fell into disrepair and were slowly lost. The entire structure above the level of the pillar bases which you can see today is a later construction. The hot water spring is now housed in 18th-century buildings, designed by architects John Wood, the Elder and John Wood, the Younger.
Visitors in Georgian England drank the waters in the Grand Pump Room, which is still accessible from the Baths and is a good way to end your visit with tea and cake – rather than water. With the opening of Thermae Bath Spa in 2006, Bath has become the only town or city in the United Kingdom where you can bathe in naturally heated spring water. With it Bath is reclaiming it’s historical heritage.

The city is primarily built in Georgian architecture crafted from light golden Bath stone and is well known for its terrace structures. The most spectacular of Bath’s terraces, the Royal Crescent, was built around 1767 and designed by the younger aforenamed John Wood. Walking around these streets, especially when the beams of sunlight are kissing the stone buildings and colouring them golden is a very nice way to spend an afternoon. I am not surprised that Bath has such an uplifting and positive feel to it, every time I arrive, I just want to stay.
Jane Austen lived in Bath in the early 19th century and you can visit the Jane Austen Centre on one of the larger impressive lanes. Go to the gift shop if you need an I love Mr. Darcy tote bag or mug in your life. My favourite view is looking up the hill towards Pulteney Bridge from the banks of the River Avon. The bridge is one of only four in the whole world to have shops built across its full span on both sides and was completed in 1774.

Another place I like to go to – especially for its cellar again – is one of the oldest buildings in Bath called Sally Lunn’s in the formerly Lilliput Alley. This is an eating house which houses the historical kitchen in which the recipe for the Sally Lunn bun was recovered in the 1930’s. Legend goes that Sally Lunn created the first Bath bun – naming it the Sally Lunn all the way back in the 17th century. The Sally Lunn Eating House claims that the recipe was brought to Bath in the 1680s by a Huguenot refugee called Solange Luyon, who became known as Sally Lunn. Another theory is that Sally Lunn is the anglicisation of ‘Sol et lune’ which is French for ‘sun and moon’, representing the golden crust and white base. It was a custom in the past to name things after how they looked. Like Hot Cross buns were named Cross buns because they were marked with a cross. Pop downstairs to see the kitchen and the 12th century faggot oven. I just want to cook in it, push the dolly who sits in front of it aside and take over the kitchen. Seriously, why are places still putting creepy old dolls in settings?

Bath has two buns today, the Bath bun and the Sally Lunn, and both are competing to be the first bun to be made in Bath.
The Bath bun is said to have been invented as a cure in the 18th century by a doctor called William Oliver, het later invented the Bath Olivers, a rather dry biscuit that served his purpose to be easy for the stomach much better than the rich Bath Bun did.
The bun is made of a sweet dough very much like that of an original Hot Cross Bun, it is dotted with currants and at the bottom of each bun you will spot a knob of sugar. The buns are finished with a sticky wash and dotted with a couple of extra currants and a few of those teeth breaking sugar nibs. There is a description of this bun in a mid 19th century journal showing us that the bun was known all over England and Scotland by this time.

The Bath-bun is a sturdy and gorgeous usurper – a new potentiate, whose blandishments have won away a great many children, we regret to say, from their lawful allegiance to the plum-bun. The Bath-bun is not only a toothsome dainty, but showy and alluring withal. It was easier for ancient mariners to resist the temptations of the Sirens, than it is for a modern child to turn away from a Bath-bun…Large, solid, and imposing, it challenges attention, and fascinates its little purchasers.
Edinburgh Journal of 1855, Chambers

Address book

See and do

The Roman Baths
Jane Austen Centre
The Circus
The Royal Crescent
Bath Abbey
Theatre Royal
Pulteney Bridge

Food

The Foodie Bugle Shop and Cafe
7 Margaret’s Buildings, Bath BA1 2LP

My number one spot for breakfast, light lunch and cake and tea or coffee. But also for carefully sourced groceries, your daily loaf of decent bread, cheeses, pastries, vegetables, and homewares in the basement shop. Beautiful vintage kitchen and home items and carefully chosen new items to grace the home, kitchen and garden. A must visit for the perfectionist foodie. The owner Silvana is a friend.

The Fine Cheese Co
29-31 Walcot St, Bath BA1 5BN, Verenigd Koninkrijk
www.finecheese.co.uk

For cheeses from Britain, France and Italy. They also have a cafe.

Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum
4 North Parade Passage, Bath, BA1 1NX

For Sally Lunn buns served with all kinds of extra’s like eggs, bacon, jam etc.
In the basement a rare faggot oven can be seen in an ancient kitchen setup.

The Bath Bun Tea Shoppe

2 Abbey Green, Bath

For Bath Buns and tea

Pump Room, Searcys (££)
Stall Street, Bath, BA1 1LZ

For Afternoon Tea in Jane Austen style surroundings, right by the Roman Baths.

The Circus Cafe and Restaurant (££)
34 Brock St, Bath
+44 1225 466020

For lunch and dinner, serving modern British food and English wines (French and Italian too)

Jamie’s Italian Bath (£)
10 Milsom Street, Bath BA1 1BZ, Verenigd Koninkrijk

For Italian inspired dishes cooked with fresh ingredients. Always a winner

Outside Bath

Eat and Stay

The Pig restaurant and hotel (££)
Hunstrete, Pensford, 4NS
+44 1761 490490
www.thepighotel.com

For lunch and dinner, serving modern British food and English wines and ales. Breakfast for guests of the hotel.
The food prepared is sourced within 20 miles of The Pig and from their own kitchen garden. I highly recommend this place and a whole post about my visit is following soon.

A Visit to the Peak District

30th July 2014 by Regula 7 Comments

Normally for us a holiday starts early in the morning, after not nearly enough sleep. I will repack my clothes last minute and then we’re off, to start a long long day.

But not this time, we were travelling with P&O’s overnight ferry from Zeebrugge to Hull. We left the house at 4, which left me enough time to change my mind about my chosen wardrobe for our holiday and leave without the usual rush.

Our plan was to travel to the Peak District, a beautiful national park in the North of England. The ferryboat brought us conveniently to an hour away from where we needed to be and gave us ideas for other trips in the future. Last year we stood still fro 6 hours on our way to the West country, then again a six hour delay when we were heading to the Cotswolds and again when we drove back to Dover.

Needless to say, we were so looking for a way to avoid the dreadful M25, M4 and other M’s that get major delays. The Ferry to Hull brings you not only to the gateway of the North and Scotland, it’s great when you need to travel to Wales and even the Midland towns like Birmingham. Anything to avoid the traffic around London sounds like music to my ears.

My partner in crime

Our holiday well and truly started when we boarded the ferry and got us a nice spot on deck to watch the sunset while we were sipping a glass of wine and gazing over the wide and peaceful seascape.

When we retired to our hut we turned into our bunk beds and closed our eyes with the knowledge that we were being brought to England without having to drive, or take trains, in the morning after breakfast, we would just suddenly arrive where we needed to be. It was fantastic for B, who is stuck in traffic every day to get to the office, when you’re on holiday, you really don’t want to spend it driving for yours again.

After a hearty brekkie we left the Ferry and drove into the rainy North of England. We made a two hour stop in Sheffield as it was on the road and we needed a cup of tea and our English magazines. Then we drove on to our final destination, Castleton a quaint little village in the Hope Valley.

Castleton is an old mining village, first for lead an then when a young boy decided to go and search for lead in Treak Cliff hill, a new site in Castleton that he leased, he excavated an entrance for years but discovered not lead, but a vein of blue stone with yellow streaks. The stone was baptised Blue John, probably an interpretation in the local dialect from the French ‘bleu et jaune’. The stone started to be mined and was even used in the first world war as a fuel for furnaces which unfortunately resulted in a lot of precious stone being lost forever.

In the 1940’s a miner found a new vein of Blue John and hid it so only he could find it again, sadly he only got to tell a few people before he passed away suddenly.

Mining still happens in this cavern in january of each year, and the cavern, which you can visit, is still in the hands of the mining family which inherited it decades ago. The ‘lost vein’ as it was called became nothing more than a legend after a few decades but then last year, the current miners at Treak Cliff Cavern discovered it by accident when kicking some mud. The legend told the story of John Royce, the miner who hid the new – now lost – vein with some clay and blankets so when blankets were found underneath the clay, the miners were of course extremely excited by their discovery. There are a few caverns to visit in the village, most are lead mines but if you need to choose only one, I would choose Treak Cliff Cavern as it is the last working Blue John mine and a family business. I bought a huge nodule of the Lost vein because I was so intrigued by the cavern. In the cafe of the cavern you can also have a glass of the water they collect in the cavern, naturally filtered water!

The village of Castleton also has 6 pubs, a restaurant and a couple of cafe’s. For a small village like that it is extraordinary, we were there when there weren’t all that much tourists around but still at night the pubs and the local restaurant were packed. We tried a few places for dinner but we came to the conclusion that the Italian restaurant which was actually more a place serving modern British food and excellent and creative pizza’s, was the very best of the bunch. Produce was fresh, well prepared, and dishes were wholesome and well priced. The drinks on offer are your traditional wine list, which I must say featured a British sparkling wine and a few options of local craft beer. A place where I gladly part with my cash.

Another site to see is Peverel’s castle which is mentioned in the Domesday book in 1086. The ruins overlook Castleton village and after a short walk up the hill, you get a great view over the valley and surrounding hills. Our farmhouse B&B which could be spotted from the hilltop was situated in the most idillic place at the foot of Winnats Pass, a ravine of limestone hills which make you feel very small when you take a stroll trough the towering landscape. We walked there at 7 in the morning, after being woken up by the sun early and heading out quickly after being intrigued by the view from our bedroom window.

Winnats Pass

Derbyshire oatcake with local -devine- bacon, cooked by the farmer

Early mornings, or maybe even evenings are best to experience Winnats Pass, as during the day this National Trust owned estate is clouded by fast moving cars and busses of day-trippers. I also enjoy the quiet morning atmosphere, the chill in the air like the cold breath of nature breathing in your neck.

After our breakfast of traditional Derbishire Oatscakes, bacon and eggs we drove off into the unexpected sunny warm weather to discover another Peak district delight, the Bakewell tart.

Arriving in Bakewell I was a bit disappointed by the busy state of the main road, it made me feel quite nervous and I could not wait to discover a more quaint and quiet part of the village. Behind the corner of the Bakewell pudding shop is a narrow street where no cars were luckily allowed, there we discovered another two bake well pudding and tart shops and we decided to compare tarts. One was sweeter than the other and my personal taste is that less sugar is better and my preference went to Bloomers who’s puddings and tarts were less sweet and didn’t include preservatives. We washed it all down with ehm… beer, and drove further south for ten minutes or so to visit Haddon Hall.

Bakewell and bunting, I do like a town that has a bit of bunting

The Bakewell Pudding

Haddon Hall isn’t just a beautiful fortified Tudor manor house, it is also the film location of one of my favourite movies: Jane Eyre with Charlotte Gainsbourg as Jane and William Hurt as Mr Rochester. The recent version with Michael Fassbender also had some scenes filmed there but the older film I just mentioned, just is the better Charlotte Bronte translation onto silver screen.

Another place to visit if you have a taste for the Bronte sisters and Jane Eyre novels is of course Chatsworth house and Lyme park. Especially Lyme Park which is used for that epic BBC version of Pride and Prejudice from 1995 which has the one and only Mr Darcy: Colin Firth. Lyme Park shows the backdrop of that scene where Mr Darcy jumps into the water and afterwards meets Elisabeth Bennet soaking wet… Do I need to say more?

The scene of Jane Eyre… “Jane, You, you strange – you almost unearthly thing!” Mr Rochester

Haddon Hall, where parts of Jane Eyre were filmed

Hardwick Hall, although situated just outside the Peak District is well worth a visit. Hardwick old hall, a superb ruin which is situated right next to the ‘new’ hall looks like the roof and windows were removed last year and are impressive. The new hall was build by Bess of Hardwick, the second richest woman in England after Queen Elizabeth I and one of the first woman who wanted to applaud strong independent woman. It is a curious looking manor and the ruins of the old hall next to it make it quite an interesting place to have a walk around. When you get peckish, there is the National Trust Tearoom to get a sarnie or a slice of cake. Just off the estate is also a working mill where you can buy excellent flour.

Dovedale, a picturesque valley in south of the Peak District National park is a perfect place for a leisurely walk. We started early morning in a tiny village called Milldale, we had a cup of tea by the River Dove and were mugged by a dozen of ducks who were up to no good trying to steal our slice of lemon drizzle cake. Realising were were outnumbered by the ducks we followed the walking track next to the river Dove and followed it to Dovedale and the iconic ‘stepping stones’ bridge.

Allow plenty of time for this walk, it is really beautiful and you will want to stop for plenty of pictures and breaks. In the little tea and coffee shop in Milldale you can purchase a good map of the area which shows the different walks and how long they take.

On our way back from Dovedale to Castleton we stopped at Buxton, not the prettiest of towns but we did spot a place that sells filled Derbyshire oatcakes and other sarnies for on the go. Our last stop was Tideswell, the village who got some fame after the BBC lottery program, the village used the funds to start a cookery school and the Taste Tideswell scheme where village shops could participate to a foodie cooperative. It was 5 in the evening though, and the village was asleep like all shops have been closed for years instead of an hour or two. Go there before 4 in the afternoon!

Monsal head, nice walk down to the river

Back in Castleton we enjoyed many short evening strolls and our stay there ended with a visit to the tiny village shop, they sell breakfast options on the go, excellent cakes, oatcakes and bread, most of which is baked on site. I had them fill a box for us to take as a picnic and also had the choice between a variety of local cheeses and pork pies. I would be very happy with a store like that on my doorstep.

Our few days in the Peak District ended with the cruise on the P&O ferryboat back to Belgium, we had a good meal, a drink and turned in early after another lovely sunset over the sea.

Getting there
Ferry boat

If you’re coming from the continent, the P&O ferry from Zeebrugge to Hull really is the ideal way to travel to the Peak District, (but also the Lake District, Scotland, Wales and the Midlands if you are planning a long holiday). It’s relaxing and you awake to start your holiday with a freshly rested head.

Flying in

When coming from further afield, the airport of Manchester is the best airport to fly to and regular trains run to Buxton, Hope and Edale and busses get you further to other towns.
Train

Also if you are coming from London or further down, a train will bring you to Mancherster and regular trains run further to Buxton, Hope and Edale

Places to visit

Stately homes and ruins

Haddon Hall – if you love Jane Eyre, this is a must
Lyme Park – Go and see where some of Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice was filmed
Chatsworth house
Hardwick Hall and Old Hall
Peveril Castle

Walking and exploring

Treak cliff cavern in Castleton- for the Blue John stone
Several other caverns in Castleton
Castleton has several walks starting in the village
Winnats Pass, go early in the morning.
Mam Tor and Kinder Scout
Dovedale Valley, several walks starting from Dovedale or Milldale or other sites. Pick up one of the handy maps, they are also sold in the Milldale tea shop. Also this link may come in handy
Thorpe Cloud, a very steep hill overlooking Dovedale Valley. We climbed it, it was VERY steep but the view was worth it.
Solomon’s Temple
Monsal head, walk down to the river and walk to the viaduct

Eating
We didn’t want posh restaurants after walking all day so looked for quaint and cosy instead. These are the ones we tried. If you like a special meal, I’ve been recommended The Peacock

Castleton

1530
Italian restaurant which actually in my opinion Modern British

Excellent food for excellent value, we didn’t want a fancy restaurant, just decent food and lovely service which is what you get here. Good veggie options, great imaginative pizza’s and juicy lamb dishes. Excellent local beef as well. They serve ales from a local brewery. Highly recommended.

The Bulls Head

Great local beers, cozy pub and restaurant

Pub food, not excellent, not bad. They do pizza’s too, but use way too much cheese to my liking.

The Castle Inn

Great outside garden for a pint, local beers and ciders.

It is a ‘Vintage Inns’ chain pub and I wish I had known before I ordered food as I have eaten at those Vintage Inns before and it was just as disappointing as on the other occasions. How hard is it to make a decent bowl of soup?
Peveril store
Lovely village shop with local cheeses, oatcakes and home baked breads and cakes.

Bakewell

Bloomers bakery
for Bakewell tarts, puddings and other sweets.
There are other bakeries for Bakewell tarts but I preferred this one and it was recommended by a local.

Milldale

Tiny little takeaway tea and coffee shop, you can’t miss it as the village is super small.

They have home baked cakes, take one with you while walking.I was a guest of P&O Ferries.

Thorpe Cloud – wear suitable footwear, this is steep.

Thank you for commenting!

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Visit Dartmoor by train

A weekend away in Britain: Dartmoor and Exeter by train

17th April 2014 by Regula 12 Comments

Ditch the car for a long weekend
This online space of mine has always been about my love for Britain, not only British food. Traveling around the country, exploring regional dishes, wandering around small villages and heritage sites is what I love to do most.
So what would I do on this long weekend ahead of us? I would venture out to Dartmoor, the weather is going to be splendid for walking and having a lovely pub lunch outside. And what if you’re stuck in traffic with your car every day, or don’t have a car, don’t know how to drive or just want to get away without your car, just because you want to.
This is a weekend away to Dartmoor and Exeter, without a car, but with plenty of fun.

Day 1: A dinner on a train to Devon
The weekend starts on a friday evening at Padding station in London, we’ve already spent the day in London browsing book shops and munching our way through Borough Market but the real trip is starting when the train to Devon leaves the platform this evening.
We have a booking on the First Great Western Pullman service, which will wine and dine us until we arrive in Exeter. They journey should have brought us to Cornwall but nature took over in the West Country a couple of weeks ago and the train track at Dawlish got consumed by the sea. Our plans had to change so we decided on a weekend of walking and pub meals in Dartmoor.

I’ve always had a thing for dining trains, it just oozes Victorian charm and I can just imagine how it used to be on the older and more charming train carriages. We board the train around six and as dinner service is shorter temporary, we are taking our place at our table while we leave the station. It’s a full house, or should I say full train to Exeter and dinner service commences with a quick pace. The team on board serving us is professional and witty, it is clear that we have some regulars dining with us today. I heard the Somerset steak has a good reputation so I had to try it and for my starter I chose the Dartmouth salmon with Blackmore Vale Dairy cream cheese. That’s the thing with this Pullman dining service, they have sourced the produce from the land and the waters we are travelling past on the train. The menu has been created by Mitch Tonks of the Seahorse in Dartmouth, as is the wine list which is sadly lacking a British wine. I sipped my pint of Tribute when we were approaching Reading, the salmon was delicate in flavour and the cheese a definitely good match, the steak really was devine and cooked medium rare as I asked. The sun was setting and a short while before Taunton we received our dessert, a cheese platter for us as we don’t have a sweet tooth. All British cheeses which were at the right temperature, a soft Helford white, a smoky Devon Blue and a Keens Cheddar served with a quince jelly that was so good I finished Bruno’s as well.
By the time we left Taunton, we were full and happy and ready to turn in for the night at our hotel in Exeter.

The lady chef of the Pullman dinner service

We were so tired after walking around London all day and enjoying such lovely food on the train, that we had an early night, ready to take the twelve O clock bus to Dartmoor.

Day two: To the Moors
Busses to Dartmoor leave from the coach station in Exeter, after a walk around town with our backpacks we made a quick stop at the Real Food Store for a piece of cake – which was moist and full of dark chocolate and left us pining for more. The bus trip to Moretonhampstead is about an hour and with plenty of pretty views along the way and locals having a chat with you, it is over and done with in no time. We arrive in Moretonhampstead and start the search for our 13th century farmhouse B&B.
The farmhouse is situated a 20 minute walk out of the village, it’s a nice scenic walk and as the weather was so warm for the time of the year, we enjoyed it.
As I had seen on the website, the farmhouse was gorgeous. It is a gem, and unspoiled treasure. If you like flowery wallpaper and curtains like I do, this is your B&B. No modern additions except for the bathroom which makes this stay all the more relaxing. The sun tries to enter the room through the bay window in our room and we both make it ourselves cosy and comfortable in the armchairs which have a warm woolen upholstery. No rest for the wicked, after less than an hour we are out the door again, this time with bikes we conveniently rented from the B&B. We drove back to Moretonhampstead with a hungry tummy and thirst for a local ale. After a visit to the local butcher for a pork pie and to the greengrocer across the street for apples, we were ready for a picnic with friends we know in the area. It was my birthday, and although we planned to do some walking that day, we just had too much fun outside in the sun, savouring Devon delights and catching up with friends.
Dinner was booked at the White Heart and as we were with the bikes we opted to eat early at six. The food was great and quite fine for a pub, the pudding sticky and sweet and the ale local. A good evening and day all round and we start our return trip to the farmhouse in pitch black. I must admit I was scared at times, my imagination always gets the better of me and soon I was seeing the hound of the Baskerville in the light of my cell phone. Street lighting is none existing so take a torch with you, we didn’t.

The moss, very Tim Burton

The shivering cross

A sheep

A Tor

The ruins of a house that was still a home 50 years ago

Day three: big fry up and fried shoes
The next morning we were woken by the song of birds and beams of sunlight peeping through our flower print curtains. We had a full English in the quaint farmhouse breakfast room, which is full of vintage Staffordshire pottery and other kitchenalia. As was to be expected, the breakfast was fabulous with their own fresh eggs, local bacon, great sausages and freshly made yoghurt. All washed down with a nice cup of Earl Grey we put on our walking boots, and were greeted by the door in a ray of sunshine by Inga, our guide to Dartmoor today.
As we only had one full day on Dartmoor and we were without a car, we opted to do a guided walk with Inga. There are no extra busses that drive up the Moors, if you don’t have a car, you will not get there so Inga is catering for people who are on foot like we were. A few minutes drive with Inga brings us to the Moors and we embark on a eight or nine mile walk.
Soon it becomes clear that my boots, old army boots, have had their best years and are not waterproof. We are walking on a path that looks more like a stream of water, but as the scenery is so breathtaking, I just don’t mind the water getting in and get on with it.

I am happy we went on a walk with Inga as she not only knows where to go in this National Park that hates putting signs up for walkers, she also knows quite a few things about the history of the Moors.
The romantic rough rolling landscape of Dartmoor appears to be a wonder of nature but it is mankind who shaped the land for millennia. The people who lived and worked on Dartmoor for centuries have left their mark and pierced through the the hills to get to the precious tin. From as far back as the 12th century, tin miners created gullies to follow the veins of tin ore back into the hillside. You can still see where the large water wheels were positioned at the tin mills. The tin was rinsed from the stone and melted down. The mills have long gone, as are the wheels, just leaving behind deep wounds in the hills and small mounds of waste spoil of earlier digging works. When you look closely at the hills around Challacombe farm you can see a round circle of stones on the hillside. This is a bronze-age village called Grimspound. Around 3500 years ago the village was built by celtic settlers who grazed their stock out on the hills to take them in to the enclosure at night to keep them safe from the undomesticated wild animals like wolves, at night. From this settlement where all that remains are a few round circles where the round houses used to be, you can see burial mounds on Hameldown and a stone row that is believed to be badly ‘renovated’ by the Victorians. On the other side of the hill the side appears to have been terraced. They were probably created by Medieval farmers in a time when the climate in Dartmoor was much warmer and drier. They must have used the strip fields for growing cereal crops. We passed a large stone wall which Inga told us used to be a rabbit warren, as rabbits used to be farmed for their meat here, centuries ago. It reminds me of the Roman Hare gardens which declined after they left Britain.
If were would have been walking on our own, we wouldn’t have noticed quite a few things.
We passed at ruined farm which Inga told us was still a home 50 years ago, opposite the ruin we found remains of an old Diesel mill which was active during the war when resource were scarce. After the war it was closed and never re-opened. By the look of the ruins, there must have been a real community up on the Moors. Now there are only a handful of houses left, most of them working farms. The first written mention of people living in the area at Challacombe farm appeares in the Domesday Book and you can still see the remains of 7 medieval dwellings of which one Dartmoor Longhouse where animals and people shared the same building to keep warm.
According to Challacombe farm there were 5 tenements at Challacombe in 1613 and they were in use until 1880. One of the buildings was a cider house to serve the many miners and farmers working the land. In fact there used to be a lot of pubs on the Moors.
After four hours of walking and a welcome slice of lemon cake from our lovely guide Inga, we make our way back.

Settlements from 1613, one of them a cider barn

Stonerow, renovated by the Victorians

Celtic round house

The outer enclosure of the Celtic village

a bit of stairs

We skipped lunch as the sweet fresh air has left us without an appetite. We decided to do yet another walk to North Bovey, a quaint and quiet village not far from Moretonhampstead. After a stroll around the village, the appetites are now well and truly transformed into raging hunger and we walk into The Ring Of Bells where local ale and a pub meal awaits us. After dinner we decided not to walk back to our farmhouse B&B, as were were really only ready to put on our pyjamas and take a trip to dreamland. Ask the bartender to book the cab when you arrive as there is only one, yes only one car running as a cab on the Moors.

The village people of North Bovey gathering at the pub

North Bovey, seen from the pub

Pretty village, North Bovey

Day four: The farmhouse and the curious cattle
The next morning we enjoy our room for a few hours, reading a book and gazing out of the window after a filling breakfast. Before we leave for Exeter again, we go on a walk round the farmhouse and the farms Aberdeen Angus and South Devon cows. We walk back to Moreton, and have a little walk around town again before we take the twelve O clock bus back to Exeter.

My kind of nook

The farmhouse and the curious cattle

Exeter
Back in Exeter we do a bit of window-shopping and we head down Magdalene road where a few small local food stores are. A fish monger, a butchers and a green grocers in one street. The coffee shops and small eateries are just a bonus to that. We enjoy a welcome Devon cream tea at Tea on the Green at Cathedral Close which is conveniently located near to our hotel. While visiting a few independent shops on Fore street, we get a dinner recommendation from a local girl.

Tea on the Green

The Real Food Store, good cake and freshly baked bread

A Butchers and a Fishmonger

The Fat Pig it is for dinner. We are told it is quiz night but we are kinda curious to see the event so we stay anyway. The Fat Pig is a buzzing pub which has its own smokehouse and brewery. The food is great and the home-brews are very satisfactory, the pub quiz is so funny with questions about serial killers and music that we stay until the end and enjoy a Whisky or two after our food and beer. We can you see, because we don’t have a car with us.
Cheerful
we return to our hotel, which isn’t a thirteenth century farmhouse but
still very comfortable and located on Cathedral Close – close to Tea on
the Green where we decided to have breakfast the next morning.

Chef at The Fat Pig

Smoked ribs and bangers at The Fat Pig

A little fog on Cathedral Close

Breakfast Hash on Tea on the Green – it’s a discovery, very hearty indeed

I had spotted the owners manifesto at Tea on the Green, he advocates using only small companies and local producers. Serving tea grown in England with the homemade scones and a divers selection of luncheon and breakfast dishes. I went for the small breakfast hash which was still quite large and full of juicy local sausage chunks, crunchy spuds and cheddar, topped with a fresh hens egg. Full again we are ready for a walk around town and at noon the trip back to the station where another splendid meal on the Pullman service awaits us.

Lunch service is more relaxed with only a few tables, it is tuesday after all. I had the daily fish, which was haddock with creamed leeks and the River Exe mussels which were absolutely gorgeous. I’m a mussel woman, I love mussels but I’m also very picky when it comes to mussels. These river Exe mussels had a very solid shell, unlike any other mussel, and were a large size and very meaty. I was intrigued by them I must say, my local mussels are quite small and have a very fragile shell unlike these ones from River Exe.

We have our coffee and dessert when we arrive in Reading and by the time we enter Paddington Station in London we are again, full and happy.

Conclusion
It is lovely to get away from a busy life without a car, taking the train leaves you both with the chance of reading a book, gazing out of the window or having a nice lunch or dinner while you are driven to your destination.
Would I do it again? Yes I would, Exeter has become a sweet little town with some good eateries and pubs; the last time I visited Exeter was with my parents on one of our trips, I can remember us being refused to enter a pub because I was a little girl. The town has transformed for the better with a mixture of independent shops and chains.
I would probably travel after april as there is a bus running across the Moors from may. That way you can go further without needing transport.

Practical

Getting to Dartmoor and Exeter without a car:
Take the train from Paddington station, it takes you to Exeter in just over two hours
The First Great Western Pullman lunch and dinner service requires a booking in advance if you don’t want to be disappointed
The bus to Moretonhampstead leaves from the main bus station in Exeter and runs every two hours, you can find the time table here

Where to stay
Moretonhampstead
Great Sloncombe farm B&B – a 20 minute walk from Moretonhampstead High street
They offer bike hire and when the weather is fine they can provide a BBQ and the option of buying some of their delicious meat. The rooms are traditional and comfortable
Other B&B’s: There are a few others in the village of Moretonhampstead, look here on the village website to find them

Exeter
The Royal Clarence hotel (Abode) with restaurant of Michael Caine (who we bumped into) The rooms are modern and comfortable

Walking

Walking Dartmoor with a local: Inga from ‘Dartmoor walks this way’ was amazing, highly recommended made to measure walks. She also does bike tours with electric bikes. Email her with your questions. If you’re lucky she will bring you cake!
Walking to North Bovey, in Moretonhampstead, turn in Pound Street and follow the signs
Plenty of walks and bike tours start at Moretonhampstead, that’s why the village is an ideal base. There’s a tourist information center where you can purchase maps and such.

Where to eat and drink
Dartmoor
The White Heart (Moretonhampstead): great food and local ales, good value
The White Horse (Moretonhampstead): Locals tell us they serve excellent pizza
The Gateway Tearooms (Moretonhampstead): essential Devon cream tea
The Union Inn (Moretonhampstead): pub with beer garden and local ales
The Ring of Bells (North Bovey): Pub with pleasant beer garden, local ales and pub food

Where to eat and drink
Exeter
The Fat Pig – 2 St John Street: pub, brewery and smokehouse: Great smoked meats and hand cut chips, home brewed beers and other craft ales
The Rusty Bike – 67 Howell Road: Pub from the same owners as The Fat Pig
The Real Food Store – 11 Paris street: Organic shop with cafe upstairs
Tea On the Green – Cathedral Close: Tearoom serving excellent scones, hearty breakfasts and lunches with local produce

Shops for food
The local butchers at Moretonhampstead, sell local cheeses, pork pies, meats and some other foodie delights
The Real Food Store – 11 Paris street, Exeter: Organic shop with cafe upstairs. Serving local food and baking decent bread daily
Pipers Farm Butchers – Magdalene road Exeter
Gibson’s Plaice Fish monger – Magdalene road Exeter
Infinity foods – 25 North Road Exeter

Other shops
Haberdashery: Otton’s – 111 Fore Street Exeter
Vintage clothing: divers shops also on Fore Street Exeter
Gifts: Magdalene street has plenty of gift shops

*Everything on this trip was bought and payed for by me except the train tickets who were a kind gift from First Great Western Railways. My views are my own.*

Rye Bay Scallop Week – A day out in Britain

22nd February 2014 by Regula 6 Comments

Every year the second weekend of february marks the Rye Bay Scallop Festival. A joyous occasion where the whole town’s pubs and restaurants offer Scallop themed menus, demonstrations and evenings of fun and music.
Rye is one of the five medieval Cinq Ports and its catch of herring, mackerel, wiring, cod, plaice and sole used to be reserved for the king’s table. King Charles I mentioned Rye in 1628:
“The cheapest sea-towne for provision of fish for our house.”

Today Rye is situated two miles from the sea with the river Rother, Brede and the Tillingham connecting the port to the sea. In medieval times however Rye was almost entirely surrounded by sea until terrible storms destroyed neighbouring town Old Winchelsea and changed the course from the river Rother in the 13th century. After these events the ships were only able to reach what is now the Strand in Rye.
Rye’s economy as one of the most important of Cinq Port towns declined with the coming of larger ships that needed deepwater ports. Rye turned to fishing and smuggling where the Mermaid pub, which is still a buzzing pub in the town, played a key part. By the end of the 17th century the wool trade became important throughout Kent and Sussex and the Romney Marsh sheep are still favoured today for their juicy lamb and wool.

The last decades the scallops have become a main source of income in the winter for the ‘Scallopers’ of Rye harbour. I met up with retired fisherman John who now does the ‘chucking’ and sorting of the scallops his sons ‘catch’ on their overnight boats.
He claims a scallop only needs some butter and a quick fry on a high heat, the addition of bacon or black pudding is all you need to lift it to one of the most favourable of flavours. I can’t agree more, scallops don’t need a heavy sauce or complicated parings, a quick heating in a scorching hot pan is all they need. John showed me the ropes in chucking (cleaning) scallops but I’m sure it would take me ten years to do it as fast as he can. He took me to the harbour where I met with another fisherman who was sorting his nets for the next trip out to sea. He told me about the dangers at sea and the amount of men who get lost at sea each year. Fishing communities all show solidarity for those families who suffer a loss like that. It’s a hard life, that is a sure thing and I admire these men who brave the often lethal sea.

John, the master of the scallops

It was time for some scallop tasting at the fishmonger at the Strand, a simple favourite was prepared with bacon or with black pudding. The freshest of scallops I have ever tasted. I visited the scallop chuckers down by the harbour and stood in awe by the mountain of scallops they cleaned with joy and giving information generously. These scallops had just come in hours before, they were alive and … moving! It looked a bit like a pumping heart. They showed off a huge shell with a diameter of around 20 cm wide and told me this scallop must have been over 25 years of age. The flesh wasn’t suitable to eat but the shell remains in the shop along with the weirdly coloured ones as trofee’s of the trade.

Up in the town there are set scallop lunches and workshops, even a scallop race. The event is spread across one week so the town remains quite calm throughout the week but booking a table is advised not to be disappointed. Next to the festival Rye is a charming little village that holds special meaning especially to me as it is my home away from home and I got married there two years ago.
Plenty of pubs with good food, a few excellent tearooms and a nice stroll around the antique shops makes this a great day out.

Practical
Information about the Scallop festival:
www.scallop.org.uk

Fish monger
The Strand, Rye (by the harbour)

Great places to eat, pubs and restaurants I have tried over the years:
The Mermaid – good food and lodgings
The George – good food and lodgings
Haydens – nice for teatime
Webbe’s fish café – good fish & chips
The ship Inn
The Ypres Castle Inn – great selection of craft ales and good food
Ye Olde Bell – great terrace for a drink outside

Shopping for food
Rye Deli
High Street, Rye

Getting to Rye
Trains from Ashford, Brighton and Hastings
With your car? Park at the Pay&Display car park at the train station

Travel Britain

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