Miss Foodwise

Celebrating British food and Culture

Regula

Brighton Rock Cakes – from Oats in the North, my new book

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Recipe and extract from Oats in the North, Wheat from the South, published with Murdoch Books and available here >

Usually these buns appear as ‘Rock cakes’ or ‘Rock buns’ in old cookery books, but in 1854 two recipes for Brighton rock cakes appeared in George Read’s The Complete Biscuit and Gingerbread Baker’s Assistant. Read gives a recipe for Brighton rock cakes and another for Brighton pavillions. The latter are made the same way as Brighton rock cakes, but are finished with a topping of currants and coarse sugar that, he says, should be ‘as large as a pea’.

You can still buy Brighton rock cakes in the seaside town of Brighton at the Pavilion Gardens Café. The open-air kiosk at Brighton Pavilion has been selling Brighton rock cakes since 1940, and possibly even longer if we look at Read’s recipe from 1854. Rock cakes are popular throughout Great Britain and Northern Ireland, and often appear in literature. In Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, Hagrid serves them to Harry and Ron, and Agatha Christie also mentions them in more than one novel.

I wanted to share this recipe in publication week of my new book Oats in the North, Wheat from the South because currently I am missing the sunny Brighton beach, the buzzing pier, and the busy Brighton lanes with its independent shop walhalla. I miss the days without worry when we drove over to the UK for a weekend, antiquing, walking, eating… When the Corona crisis is over I’m planning a trip, but I wonder how we will feel post Corona, will we be free of worry or will the way we live change?

But for now, we can bake, do join my #bakecorona on social media.

This recipe only uses one egg, in a time when eggs are dear this recipe might be a solution, other recipes from the book which can be handy during shortages are the Soda bread – to save yeast, the Parkin – to save sugar, the Cornish Heavy cake NO eggs at all, Yorkshire parkin – just oat flour needed, the fat rascalls – just 1 egg needed, Swiss roll – no baking powder but lots of eggs, Flapjack – uses just oats or leftover muesli. And to save an egg, I use an egg less in my pound cake! Happy baking…

This recipe for Brighton rock cakes contains candied cedro, but most rock cakes only contain currants, so you can easily leave it out.

Recipe from Oats in the North, Wheat from the South, published with Murdoch Books and available here >

For 6 rock cakes

  • 225 g plain (all-purpose) flour
  • 100 g raw (demerara) sugar
  • or white sugar
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/4 tbsp mixed spice
  • pinch of sea salt
  • 75 g chilled butter, diced
  • 1 egg
  • 3 tbsp full-fat milk
  • 50 g currants
  • 30 g  candied cedro (optional)
  • 3 glacé cherries, halved, to garnish (optional)
  • nibbed sugar, to garnish (optional)

Method

Preheat your oven to 200°C (400°F) and line a baking tray with baking paper.

Mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, mixed spice and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and rub it into the flour mixture until it has the consistency of breadcrumbs.

Stir in the egg, then add enough milk to bring the dough together without making it too wet. If the dough is too dry to press together, add a teaspoon of milk. Fold the currants and candied cedro through the dough. Form six rock cakes using two forks – this will help achieve a rugged, rocky look. Place on the baking tray and decorate with the cherries and sugar, if using. Bake in the middle of the oven for 15 minutes until the rock cakes have a golden blush.

Oats in the North, Wheat from the South – Introducing my new baking book

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In my new book ’Oats in the North, Wheat from the South’ I’m showing the reader how the diverse climate of the British Isles influenced the growth of cereal crops and the development of a rich regional baking identity with it. Imports of spices, sugar, treacle, fortified wines
and citrus added flavour, colour and warmth to a baking culture much adored and replicated all over the world.

With the help of historical cookbooks, diaries and newspaper archives, I have given the most traditional recipe of a bake – which means, how it usually appears in old cookbooks – but often also a more recent version of that recipe to show how recipes evolve through a change of taste, economy and fashion.

With a foreword by food historian Dr. Annie Gray.

‘A feast for the eyes, as well as the stomach, meticulously researched and beautifully
photographed, this is a true love letter to the food Britain does best. One to savour,
and treasure, but most of all, one to bake from!’ — Felicity Cloake, The Guardian

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Jaune Mange

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Jaune Mange jelly is the yellow sister to the ancient delicacy called Blanc Mange which means ‘white food’. It is one of the most international early dishes of European cuisine. From the Middle Ages onwards the name of this dish in its various forms – blanc mange, blanc manger, blamange, manjar branco, biancomangiare – can be found in most European cookery books.

It is believed by many food historians that the earliest recipe for blancmange dates back to the twelfth century. Two recipes for blancmange also feature in the earliest English cookery text, The Forme of Cury from C1390. By 1395, two recipes for blancmange can be found in the Viandier manuscripts, the first French cookbook: one is a dish for the sick, the other is a multicoloured dish, which is at odds with the name’s literal meaning.

This recipe uses seville orange juice, while others recommend lemon and lemon peel for flavour and colour. Later recipes by J.H. Walsh in The British Cookery Book (1864) instruct the cook to use sherry or ‘raisin-wine’. Because the eggs give this jaune mange a set already, you don’t need to use as much gelatine as you would for a blancmange.`…

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Figgy Pudding

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Today is Stir-up sunday and the most important day on the pudding calendar. Today is the day to prepare the Christmas pudding, or plum pudding. Why this should be done a month before Christmas is something I’ve written about in a previous posting here and in my book Pride and Pudding. But this year I wanted to give you an alternative to the traditional plum pud.

A figgy pudding is just another name for a plum pudding – and both of them generally refer to puddings made with raisins or currants and no figs at all. However there have been recipes for figgy pudding in the late 19th century, but those recipes did refer to puddings made with figs and didn’t give a recipe for plum pudding. Using dried figs, this results in a dark and luxurious winter pudding. Why not have this as your pudding on Christmas day for a change this year?

This is a recipe from my little book the ‘National Trust Book Of Puddings‘ which was published in april (2019)….

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A remedy for a dry throat: Papo Secos and Port

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Not long ago I travelled to the incredible Douro Valley in Portugal where I was a guest of the Symington family, a family business who owns several port and wine vineyards or ‘quinta’ in the region. Our focus this time was on Graham’s port, for whom I also hosted an event in my house this month.

We arrived in Porto at the location where all the barrels and bottels are resting. An impressive cellar with barrels and tall ‘foedre’ as far as the eye can see, on the side wall there are barred cells with vintage ports that date back to the early decades of the last century. In the air there is the smell of ageing wood, must and a deep dark scent of port wine.

After lunch and on our way to the Douro valley, we make a stop to experience the delights of the traditional ‘pastel de nata’ or custard tart paired with a 10 year old port. My travel companion, prolific pastry chef and chocolatier Joost Arijs and I are glued to the glass window that separates us from the pastel bakery. There is no way to keep someone with his profile and a Bake Off judge and author of several books on baking away from where the action is. We walk the steep streets of Porto slightly tipsy, the delayed flight and boozy lunch with port pairing certainly got to our heads, but since all of us have had busy lives at home, it is a welcome opportunity to unwind.

There is just a sigh of light left in the Douro Valley when we arrive at the calm riverside village. Dinner is traditional dried salted cod and the Symington family’s wines to go with it. On the table I spot the bread basket, something that makes me weak in the knees when done well. There are a couple of huge breads in there, looking like a baby’s bum. I stare at them but am so full with the late lunch, custard tarts and salted cod that I can’t even fit dessert in, let alone a baby’s bum sized bun.

The next morning I wake up from the light peeping through the shutters of my room in one of the Symington’s family homes. Opening the shutters on an early morning in a quiet house where everyone is still asleep, letting in the crisp air is like breathing in life itself and with the view over the vineyard that greeted me I had to stop and take it all in. Downstairs breakfast waited for us, with juice made from the oranges growing in the garden and a basket of buns to make me weak at the knees again. On my plate, a large baby’s bum bun, I tear the two halves apart and smear the crusty bread with butter… few things are better than the simple delight of good bread and good butter….

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Copper pudding pot in collaboration with Netherton Foundry

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Win this specially designed copper pudding basin and my book Pride and Pudding!

I’m very excited to share with you that I’ve designed a copper pudding basin in collaboration with Netherton Foundry. If you don’t know Netherton Foundry yet, they are an artisan maker of extraordinary spun iron, cast iron and copper cookware from Shropshire, UK. Husband and wife team Neil and Sue have created a brand that makes the hearts of foodies skip a beat, their wares are practical, versatile, durable and they look beautiful. I’ve met Neil and Sue years ago online and we’ve been talking about collaborating ever since.

I talked to Neil about creating a pudding basin because I felt there was something missing in the pudding market, a durable non ceramic pudding basin that has little cutouts where the string can be fitted in when closing a basin with baking paper. I was thinking spun iron, but Neil, being so experienced suggested copper. It’s not just a material that perfectly manages the heat, copper is also traditional for the more decorative jelly moulds and basins and it can be immersed into water without hurting its fabric. The basin is tin-lined, just like the original historical ones.

This week Netherton Foundry is holding a competition so you can win a copper pudding basin (worth £ 142) and my book Pride and Pudding (Murdoch books)!

To win the competition you need to do this before 10 november:
If you have social media accounts, please do one or all of the following:
Follow @nethertonfoundry and @RegulaYsewijn on Twitter then find the pinned competition tweet on the Netherton Foundry page and retweet it.
OR find the competition post on Netherton Foundry Facebook and like it and the page and then share the post.
OR follow us on Instagram, find the competition on the Netherton Foundry insta and like it, comment and tag 2 friends…

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When it comes to Mincemeat, you have to plan ahead

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Mincemeat is an ancient recipe that gives you a taste of Medieval times gone by when the usage of this mixture was widely common for sweet as well as savoury dishes. That is if you were well off, dishes with these rich ingredients were the privilege of the very rich and one of the first recipes dates from the 14th century scroll presumably written by the chef of King Richard II.

Mincemeat is best made at least a month in advance so that the flavours can mature. You can use it for different recipes: as a filling for Mince pies of course but also for Eccles cakes and a couple of other British bakes.

The combination of fruits and spices for mincemeat is often diverse, but raisins, currants and candied lemon, cedro and/or orange peel are standard. Some old recipes also contain prunes, dates, figs or candied ginger. Spices are usually cinnamon, cloves, mace and nutmeg. There is always grated apple or pear and sometimes also lemon or orange juice – mostly from Seville oranges (these are very acidic and also the basis for English marmalade – see recipe here).

You can make the mincemeat in this large quantity and store it in the fridge for up to 6 months in sterilised preserving jars.

And then for a little joyeus news: my new book ‘Brits Bakboek‘ has been nominated for ‘Het Gouden Kookboek’ a prestigious kookbook award in the Netherlands. I’m absolutely chuffed and honoured to be nominated as the only Belgian on the list!
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Pork Pies van mijn nieuwste ‘Brits Bakboek’

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Vanavond was de technische proef op Bake Off Vlaanderen ‘Pork Pies’ uit mijn nieuwste boek ‘Brits Bakboek’! Een Britse klassieker die vaak in de pubs geserveerd worden, maar ook voor een picknick is het ideaal. Je maakt het op voorhand en laat het afkoelen. Die pies kan je ook vrij goed invriezen voor toekomstige feestjes of hongertjes.

Het traditionele deeg voor de Pork Pie is hot water crust, dit is essentieel! Doordat het vet voor de hot water crust gesmolten wordt, krijg je een zeer gelijkmatig deeg dat ook veel gelijkmatiger zal kleuren in de oven, terwijl je bij andere degen de vetstof in de bloem wrijft met je vingers wat tot inconsistenties kan leiden in de gebakken korst. Hot water crust is een beetje taaier dan blader-, suet- of korstdeeg maar daardoor kan dit deeg ook nattere en zwaardere vullingen perfect aan zonder natte bodem – of soggy bottoms – te vrezen. Het gebruik van een kleine hoeveelheid aan bloem met een hoger eiwitgehalte draagt ertoe bij dat het deeg meer tegen een stootje kan….

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The Great Prison Bake Off

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When in Bruges… (scroll down for Dutch)

A usual trip to Bruges would mean a walk by the romantic canals and then a beer and a plate of endives wrapped in ham in one of Belgium’s oldest traditional cafés.

But not on Tuesday, Tuesday my co-judge Herman Van Dender and our host Wim Opbrouck from Bake Off Flanders and I were invited by the inmates from the Drug-free wing of the prison of Bruges. Drug-free means these inmates have a history with drugs and want to stay clean, others just want to sit out their sentence in a drug-free environment, because the rest of the prison is full of drugs. Sadly there isn’t much that the prison can do about that, the drugs comes in with the visitors and there is no legal way of checking those who visit for carrying hidden drugs. Furthermore checking inmates is not without rules, regular urine checks or full naked body checks aren’t legal. Even though some of the inhabitants have done serious crimes, this doesn’t mean they are stripped of their human rights.

But at the drug-free wing where we were a guest last night, the prison is allowed to do regular checks because the inmates welcome it. The waiting list to get into this wing is long. Inmates who stay clean, get privileges and one of these privileges is that they are allowed to organise things together. Last week they did an Italian food competition, this week we are here to judge their baking skills.

The three of us are checked rigorously, it takes a while before I get through the metal detector since my hair contains about a hundred bobby pins. We then go on a photo for our badge and are walked to the drug-free wing by the prison’s psychologist Maarten; a cheerful tattoo covered guy in his twenties. I jokingly ask him if he used to be an inmate here, making fun of the prejudice that comes with peeps with tats….

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Victoria’s sandwich finger cakes for Marie Curie

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This week was Queen Victoria’s 200th birthday and in honour of her and to raise funds for charity, major kitchen brand Franke has asked me to create a cake for their Blooming Great Tea Party. The charity Marie Curie offers vital support to people suffering with cancer and Franke want to support the work they do by generating vital funds for them as well as awareness of the work they do. Cancer is the disease that has touched everyone in some way and while cancer research is of paramount importance, so is the care for those who suffer from it or are trying to recover.

In my Victorian cookbooks I noticed the first Sandwich cakes were made into individual finger portions so that’s what we chose for this charity tea party. What you can do is visit a Franke retailer near you which is hosting a Blooming Great Tea Party and have a nice finger sponge cake with a cuppa! You can find out which retailers are taking part by visiting www.franke.co.uk/charity.
If you can not make it to a tea party you can easily donate through this page www.justgiving.com/fundraising/frankeuk2019-mariecurie

For 32 small Victoria sponge finger cakes (recipe can be halved)

Needed: 1 or 2 non-stick baking tray size 39 x 27 cm

For the Cake

  • 4 eggs, weighed in their shell
  • same weight of: soft butter, caster sugar, self-raising flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tablespoon milk
  • butter for greasing
  • flower to dust
  • 2-3 tbsp raspberry or strawberry jam
  • 200 g double cream, whipped
  • fine white sugar, for sprinkling

For the filling

  • 100 g powdered sugar
  • 1 tbsp or 12 g custard powder (pudding powder)
  • 50 g of butter
  • 1 teaspoon milk, warm (or water)

Method

Make the filling by mixing powdered sugar, pudding powder, butter, milk or water and salt in the food processor until you get a cream. If it is much too dry, then add milk or water per ¼ teaspoon. Let the filling rest covered.

Preheat your oven to 180 ° C

Weigh the eggs in the shells to determine the quantities of butter, sugar and flour.

Put the eggs in a large mixing bowl, add soft butter, sugar, milk, self-raising flour and baking powder. Mix the batter until it is smooth.

Scoop the batter into the baking tray(s) and neatly smooth out using a scraper or spatula.

Place the tray in the center of your oven for 18-20 minutes. Leave to rest for 5 minutes, remove from the tray and allow to cool on a rack.

When making one tray, cut the cake with a serrated knife into eight, then cut each piece into 4 finger cakes and halve them so that the filling can be sandwiched in between.

When making two trays, simply cut the whole cake into fingers or for a quick method top the whole cake with jam and cream and then cut into fingers.

For creating individual fingers smear the bottom finger cake with jam, pipe or smear the cream on top and put the top cake on top.

During strawberry season it’s delicious to add slices of fresh strawberries to the filling.

Sprinkle with fine sugar.